Good Taste: New burger on the block

The chain burger war is officially raging just north of Rittenhouse Square now that Good Stuff Eatery, Top Chef alum Spike Mendelsohn's D.C.-based concept, has finally opened on 18th Street within blocks of Shake Shack and Five Guys.

The revamp of the old Numa took nearly a year, but the bi-level space with the airy second-floor dining room was worth it.

And the burgers are excellent, too, a distinctly thicker patty than its two direct competitors - 5.3 ounces of blended chuck, brisket, and short rib that the grill chefs actually managed to cook medium-rare on request.

I still prefer Shake Shack's shakes (and still crave their old-school thin-patty style). The fries are best at Five Guys.

And Good Stuff still has kinks (soggy fried onions, overdressed salads).

But with more toppings, including a Muenster-and-cheddar-topped "Melt" with onions and mushrooms on a sesame potato roll, Good Stuff's burgers are something I might eat - and savor - at home.

- Craig LaBan
Good Stuff Melt, $6.98, Good Stuff Eatery, 108 S. 18th St., 267-928-2848; goodstuffeatery.com.