Martorano's S. Philly style makes its way to A.C.

YOU CAN file Martorano's, the new, upscale Italian room at Harrah's Resort Atlantic City, under "never say never."

In February 2013, restaurateur Steve Martorano told the People Paper that he had no interest in Atlantic City, reasoning that the Philly/Jersey/New York region already had enough Italian comfort-food restaurants like his.

But his partnerships in Vegas at Rio All-Suite Hotel & Casino (he's also opening soon at the Paris casino) - which, like Harrah's, is owned by Caesars Entertainment - led him to reconsider.

"The relationship we have with is blossoming into a very strong marriage," he said, giving special credit to Rick Mazer, a former Caesars exec in Vegas who is now Harrah's regional president and general manager.

Mazer "really fought for me; I started to realize, 'You know what, maybe it's time' " to hit AyCee, Martorano said.

Although pizza is not on the Harrah's menu (as it is in his Florida and Vegas stores), the rest of the bill of fare hews to Martorano's blueprint of South Philly-style basics. Among the signature dishes are the Eggplant Stack, made with scrambled eggs and cow (not buffalo) mozzarella, and what some consider the best meatballs in the solar system (a pork, veal and beef combo served in a meatball salad).

Oenophiles will likely be impressed with Martorano's wine list, easily one of the largest in Atlantic City.

The 300-seater, taking over Luke Palladino's haute-cuisine space, boasts such standard Martorano amenities as closed-caption gangster movies screened on wall-mounted TVs, and a dance floor and DJ booth used Friday and Saturday nights (Martorano used to spin records at Del Val discos).

Unique to Harrah's is the black-and-white tile floor, a nod to the restaurant in "The Godfather," where Michael Corleone murders a gangster and a corrupt police captain.

Although Martorano's has been serving since the July Fourth weekend, a celebrity-studded grand-opening bash is planned for Aug. 23.

The Harrah's outlet isn't just another new restaurant for Martorano.

He left Philly some 30 years ago because he didn't want to join the family's business: His uncle, Raymond "Long John" Martorano, was one of the South Philly mob's most powerful and notorious leaders. His 2002 murder was never solved.

Martorano admitted that the last time he was in Atlantic City, decades ago, he lost all his money gambling and, on his way back to Philly, "blew through" the Atlantic City Expressway tollbooths without paying.

"Now," he beamed, "I got my name in lights on the side of a building."