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Views on Volver

Here is an excerpt from Craig LaBan's online chat: Craig LaBan: I'm guessing many of you are going to want to talk about Volvér, which I reviewed Sunday. Given Jose Garces' stellar track record to date, this one did not go as expected, as you can read in my disappointed 2-bell take. I'm ready to share more insight and interested to hear about your experiences at Volvér.

Here is an excerpt from Craig LaBan's online chat of July 22, 2014:

Craig LaBan: I'm guessing many of you are going to want to talk about Volvér, which I reviewed Sunday. Given Jose Garces' stellar track record to date, this one did not go as expected, as you can read in my disappointed 2-bell take. I'm ready to share more insight and interested to hear about your experiences at Volvér.

Reader: I was planning to go to Volvér for my anniversary in October, but after your review, I'm rethinking. Do you think Volvér will modify their concept or add options in the coming months?

C.L.: You'll have to check with Volvér. I understand it will debut its "second season" menu this fall, and I'm sure it'll be a little different. But Jose told me they'll keep some of their "instant classics." There are a lot of excellent elements in play at Volvér - certainly potential for a higher rating. But in its first edition, all those parts didn't come together as a whole that excited me enough to want to return and spend that kind of money anytime soon.

Reader: I haven't been to the main event, but stopped in for a drink and snack at the bar, and had a great and affordable experience. They offer an amazing sour beer, and an opportunity to taste on the small scale. I especially enjoyed the guanciale.

C.L.: I loved the bar experience at Volvér - gorgeous, warm room with that beautiful fabric sculpture, top-notch cocktails, and plenty of excellent nibbles - fine oysters, great tartares, etc. It's also an approachable à la carte experience. Very different, though, from sitting down to 15 courses, nearly 4 hours, and $250-plus a person (with tip, tax and drink pairings).

Reader: You spoke about service in the review a bit, but didn't elaborate too much. Did you find it to be long-winded and pretentious? I know I did - wanted to get your take on it.

C.L.: Well, "pretentious" was not the problem. The individual servers were lovely and skilled, passionate about what they were presenting. The problem was their mission, which involved a "story component" prelude to every dish. It's presumptuous to assume diners want to hear long stories about the provenance and inspiration of every dish before eating them. The fact that every story revolved around the very moment Chef got his great idea only added to the agitation, and the sense the meal was built around the legend-building of Jose.

Reader: Can you give an example of a long, expensive tasting menu you've had that would theoretically get 4 bells . . . say, Eleven Madison Park or Per Se ... they are very long meals. I think the food is better than Volvér. But it's possible nothing is worth the time and money to you?

C.L.: I've eaten at both Per Se and the French Laundry, which kind of launched the trend, and Masa, the luxe sushi tasting in NYC. And the secret to those successful experiences was the ability to provide the ultimate ingredients that surprised the diner both in the original wit of their presentations and in the sublime craftsmanship. I remember feeling I'd never dreamed of eating anything I'd been presented at those meals. As for the money, that's very subjective. How much is a once-in-a-lifetime meal worth? The challenge: The middle-restaurant-tier food has gotten so good.