Back from Michigan and thinking local again
Here is an excerpt from Craig LaBan's online chat: Craig LaBan: I hate the end of summer. It's my favorite season for fresh food, long days, and of course, a few weeks of travel. Today marks the return of the Crumb Tracker quiz after my two-week absence. Be first to name all three places where I ate these dishes and win a prize! 1) Roast chicken with ramp salsa verde, 2) Mexican shrimp cocktail, 3) brussels sprout tacos.
Here is an excerpt from Craig LaBan's online chat:
Craig LaBan: I hate the end of summer. It's my favorite season for fresh food, long days, and of course, a few weeks of travel. Today marks the return of the Crumb Tracker quiz after my two-week absence. Be first to name all three places where I ate these dishes and win a prize! 1) Roast chicken with ramp salsa verde, 2) Mexican shrimp cocktail, 3) brussels sprout tacos.
I want to mention my annual road trip to Michigan, where we have a reunion at a family camp in the northern mitten. I use this week of camp food to reset my taste buds meter at "Zero". . . but suffice it to say, it was good to take a week off from pro-grade eating. On the way, however, I got a chance to revisit my old Ann Arbor haunts, which included a lunch at Zingerman's, the legendary deli and specialty food mecca. My favorite is usually the Georgia Reuben (a turkey reuben with coleslaw, which Philadelphians call a Rachel).
OK, Philly, whatcha got?
Reader: 1. Bank and Bourbon?
CL: Yes! Bank & Bourbon is the smartly renovated American brasserie that's replaced Sole Food in the Loews PSFS hotel. I've only had lunch here, but it had a genuine, bustling energy to it. Also, lots and lots of bourbon, which is really a good thing.
Reader: I've seen mackerel popping up lately and people seem to love it or hate it. Your thoughts on the rising popularity of such polarizing foods?
CL: I love the mackerel/oily fish trend . . . these are sustainable fish that, when fresh, deliver a lot of character. Best one I had this year was at Laurel. I'm all for polarizing foods handled with finesse that can change perceptions.
Reader: You use the phrase " . . . to the gastronomic temples of Walnut Street" in your [online bio]. Do you think it's time to revise that?
CL: You are totally right.
Reader: I'm trying to support grass-fed local beef. Have buying tips?
CL: Try Wyebrook in Honey Brook (I'm in the midst of writing about it for next week's Food). They sell all their sustainably raised, grass-fed meats fresh in the butcher shop/cafe. A truly scenic place where you can also have a nice meal.
Reader: 3. Sancho Pistolas?
CL: Yes! Good guessing on those brussels sprout tacos - perfect Mexi-fusion for Fishtown hipsters. Great carnitas steamed buns and black bean soup. Should give F-town fave Loco Pez more competition than the authentically styled Que Chula es Puebla taqueria (best flan on Earth) at Second and Master.
Reader: Speaking of butchers, what's the best place to go to get a nice, thick 2-pound-plus ribeye steak for Labor Day?
CL: The easy answer used to be Harry Ochs. Giunta's does an excellent job - great service, fine meats, and real butcher-ship . . . but they don't do any dry aging, as far as I know. Actually, Whole Foods and Wegmans both have excellent dry-aged beef. You might also try one of our classic Italian Market butchers - Sonny D'Angelo is the best if you don't mind spending a mint. I'm also partial to Cappuccio's, especially the more esoteric sausages.
Reader: 2. Mexican shrimp cocktail - Blue Corn?
CL: Sí! Sí! Sí! Very pleasant. Catering for a gringo crowd with still-authentic flavors, full-service bar (and slightly higher prices). Not necessarily any better than our current favorite on the street, Mole Poblano - but I'd return for this shrimp cocktail.