Townsend presents Thanksgiving, refined

When Townsend "Tod" Wentz was growing up in Palmyra, Burlington County, his family's Thanksgiving table varied depending on who was cooking dinner. When his German-English relatives hosted, the holiday meant turkey, gravy, green beans, and stuffing. But when his Polish grandmother was in charge, it was a feast of ham, stuffed cabbage, and coleslaw.

Now that Wentz is the one doing the cooking, he does the only logical thing: He makes all of the above. Only he refines the dishes with the classical French techniques that have become the hallmark of his six-month-old restaurant, Townsend, on East Passyunk Avenue's booming restaurant corridor.

So, instead of stuffed cabbage, he makes chou farci aux cochon - a cast-iron pan filled with ground pork, rice, and onions and gift-wrapped in soft green cabbage leaves. He pumps up his sweet potatoes with a sweet-and-sour rosemary gastrique, that is, vinegar mixed with caramel and butter. And his cranberries are cooked with a modified take on the traditional quatre epices; his version uses ginger, star anise, and cinnamon, plus blood oranges for a sweet citrus tang.

And when - as on the day of a pre-Thanksgiving photo shoot - his entire staff and their significant others showed up eager to share the early meal Wentz had prepared for the camera, he took a page from his grandmother's cookbook and made a big batch of coleslaw to fill the extra plates.

"I said, 'I'm making a full Thanksgiving dinner, so we might as well make a night of it.' We invited everyone on staff - and now there's 25 people coming, and we don't have enough food," he said.

"Everyone said yes. Who would've expected that?"

Actually, pretty much anyone familiar with Wentz's cooking - which rated three bells from The Inquirer, among other accolades - might have expected that.

Wentz, who trained under Jean-Marie Lacroix, wasn't about to disappoint them.

Consider his turkey: Work on this bird began more than 24 hours in advance. Wentz is a proponent of brining turkeys to increase flavor and moisture. His preference: Brine it for four hours in a 10 percent solution, then let the bird dry in the fridge overnight so the skin will crisp in the oven. In this case, he stuffed it with mirepoix - onions, carrots, and celery, plus butter - before rubbing the skin with olive oil, salt, and pepper - and tying the legs together for cooking.

Then there's his gravy, itself no amateur affair.

"The key to a good gravy? It's gizzards. Organs. Hearts," Wentz said. He said the right way to do it is to confit those giblets, and then grind them up. (Though, he concedes, sage sausage sauteed with turkey drippings makes an admirable substitute.)

The only other dish Wentz considers an absolute Thanksgiving must-have is stuffing - "a really, really good stuffing. That's my lights-out dish. Eat that and then it's time for a nap," Wentz said.

The key, he said, is to lightly toast the bread first, and then assemble it with rich ingredients. He likes cognac, heavy cream, butter, and chestnuts.

To streamline the cooking process, Wentz opts to cook his turkey, stuffing, and other side dishes all at the same temperature, 325 degrees.

Though he's making his carrots "Boulanger-style" - that is, as if roasted in a baker's oven at high temperatures to drive caramelization - in this case he just bakes them spread out on a cookie sheet for a similar effect at a lower heat.

"The good thing is none of it is overtly technical. There's not too much you could do wrong at the temperature we're cooking at, unless you're really negligent," he said.

It's a good thing Wentz is efficient, because once he starts cooking he can get carried away.

In this case, he augmented his menu with baked Granny Smith apples, cored and stuffed with house-made quince marmalade, sugar, butter, and walnuts, and cooked in Calvados. He also served a country ham with a sweet and sour rosemary sauce. And, he made a double-size batch of pomme puree - mashed potatoes - classically prepared with lots of butter and hot milk.

But, perhaps that's what going 15 years without cooking Thanksgiving dinner will do to a chef.

Townsend said the holiday is the only time his whole family gets together, but up until now he has never cooked the meal.

"Usually, you work right up until the day and you're exhausted the next day and you really don't have time to prepare," he said. "This year, we're actually going to have Thanksgiving at the restaurant."

In fact, Wentz will be cooking three Thanksgiving dinners: the dinner for his staff, a buffet for Townsend's customers on Nov. 25, and the real thing for his family a couple of days later.

"It's not for the faint of heart," he admitted.

He's hoping to keep things simple for his family's Thanksgiving Day dinner - but he's aware that expectations are high. "They think they know what to expect, and I would hate to let them down."

Makes 8-10 servings

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3 large onions, peeled

3 carrots, peeled

3 celery stalks

1 whole turkey, 12 to 16 pounds

Kosher salt

Spice blend (below)

1 head garlic, split

4 sprigs rosemary

2 sprigs thyme

5 sage leaves

1/4 cup Calvados

2 turkey gizzards

Extra virgin olive oil

1/4 pound butter

For the spice blend:

1 tablespoon juniper berries, ground with black peppercorns

1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns, ground with juniper berries

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground allspice

1 teaspoon ground ginger

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1. Cut onions, carrots, and celery into large pieces, about 1 inch each.

2. Rub turkey cavity liberally with kosher salt and spice blend.

3. Mix the onions, carrots, celery, garlic, rosemary, thyme, and sage. Sprinkle lightly with kosher salt, spice blend, and a splash of calvados.

4. Stuff the turkey with this mix, reserving some for underneath. Truss or tie the legs together with kitchen twine.

5. Rub the outside of the turkey with kosher salt, some spice blend, extra virgin olive oil, and some butter.

6. In the roasting pan, place the remaining vegetable mix, turkey gizzards, remaining butter, and Calvados. Place the turkey in the pan.

7. Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven for 30 minutes, then turn the heat down to 325 degrees F for 21/2 hours or until internal temperature is 155 degrees F. Begin basting the turkey after an hour. If it gets too dark, tent it with folded aluminum foil.

8. Rest turkey for 20 minutes before carving. Internal temp should reach 165 degrees while resting for safe consumption.

9. Reserve the gizzards for gravy.

Per serving (based on 10): 778 calories; 94 grams protein; 7 grams carbohydrates; 3grams sugar; 40 grams fat; 289 milligrams cholesterol; 371 milligrams sodium; 2 grams dietary fiber.

Note: Townsend Wentz uses a 10 percent brining solution by weight, 3 kilograms of water to 300 grams salt. If you don't have a scale, dissolve a cup of salt in 6 cups of water in a large pot, and add 1/2 cup brown sugar and sprigs of rosemary and thyme, plus juniper berries, black peppercorns, and a lemon cut in half. Bring to a boil, remove from heat, and add a 3-pound bag of ice, or about 4 ice-cube trays. Submerge turkey for 4 hours in the brine using a 5-gallon bucket and a weight to keep it submerged. Dry in the refrigerator overnight before roasting. EndText

Makes 8-10 servings

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2 loaves of country bread, crust off, cubed

1 cup carrots, diced

1 cup onion, diced

1 cup celery, diced

1/4 pound butter, divided use

1 pound chestnuts, roasted, peeled, halved

4 egg yolks

2 cups chicken or turkey stock

1/2 cup heavy cream

1/4 cup calvados (can substitute brandy or cognac)

4 sprigs thyme, picked

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1. Toast bread in a 350-degree oven until light brown all over.

2. Saute carrots, onion, celery in butter until translucent and tender. Cool.

3. Saute chestnuts in butter until golden brown. Cool.

4. Whip egg yolks, chicken or turkey stock, heavy cream, and Calvados together.

5. Combine toasted bread, whipped liquids, cooked vegetables, chestnuts, and thyme. Toss until fully incorporated.

6. Cover and cook in a 350-degree oven for 45 minutes, or until set. Uncover and cook for 5 minutes to brown top.

Per serving (based on 10): 293 calories; 4 grams protein; 35 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams sugar; 16 grams fat; 117 milligrams cholesterol; 388 milligrams sodium; 2 grams dietary fiber.

Makes 8 to 10 servings

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1 large head savoy cabbage

2 pounds ground pork

1/2 cup onions, diced

1/2 cup carrots, diced

1/2 cup celery, diced

1/4 pound butter

2 egg yolks

1/4 cup milk

2 cups diced country or white bread, no crust

1 cup cooked white rice

2 sprigs thyme, picked

Kosher salt

Black pepper

1 whole nutmeg for grating

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1. Remove outer dark green cabbage leaves and discard. Remove the next 8 medium to light green leaves. Cut out the tough middle rib of each. Cut the rest of the cabbage into ½-inch pieces. Reserve.

2. Blanch whole leaves in boiling salted water until tender. Immediately plunge into an ice bath. Dry and reserve.

3. In a heavy pan, saute the ground pork until browned. Drain and reserve.

4. In the same pan, saute the onions, carrots, and celery in butter until translucent and tender. Reserve.

5. Cook the diced cabbage in butter until tender. Reserve.

6. Whip the egg yolks and the milk together. Soak the bread with egg/milk mixture.

7. Combine the cooked pork, vegetables, cabbage, rice, and thyme with the soaked bread and liquid.

8. Season with kosher salt, ground black pepper, and freshly grated nutmeg.

9. Butter a heavy pan or baking dish and line with the cabbage leaves.

10. Place the pork-vegetable mix into the pan or dish and fold the leaves over to cover.

11. Place a similar-sized buttered dish on top of the pan or baking dish to lightly weight it down.

12. Cook in a 350-degree oven for 45 minutes or until internal temperature is 165 degrees.

Per serving (based on 10): 336 calories; 28 grams protein; 24 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams sugar; 14 grams fat; 133 milligrams cholesterol; 249 milligrams sodium; 3 grams dietary fiber.

Makes 8 to 10 servingsEndTextStartText

30 baby carrots (or sliced larger carrots)

1/4 pound butter

1/4 cup honey

4 sprigs thyme

Kosher salt

Piment d'Espelette

Dried chamomile, ground (optional)

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1. Peel the baby carrots. Reserve.

2. In a heavy pan, saute the carrots in butter over medium-high heat until the butter starts to brown.

3. Add the honey, thyme, and Piment d'Espelette. Toss to coat evenly.

4. Cook uncovered in a 450-degree oven for five minutes. Toss again to recoat.

5. Cook until dark edges appear on the carrots and they begin to caramelize.

6. When they are tender, caramelized, and slightly shriveled, toss with chamomile and adjust seasoning. Serve immediately.

Per serving (based on 10): 118 calories; trace protein; 10 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams sugar; 9 grams fat; 24 milligrams cholesterol; 89 milligrams sodium; 1 gram dietary fiber.EndText

Makes 8 to 10 servingsEndTextStartText

2 pounds fresh cranberries

2 cups sugar, divided

2 cups orange juice

1 tablespoon quatre epices, a French four- spice blend

1 medium piece ginger, peeled

3 blood oranges, peeled and segmented, reserve juice

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1. Add the cranberries, half the sugar, orange juice, spices, and ginger to a large pot.

2. Add water until it is about ½ inch below the top of the cranberries.

3. Bring to a boil, and cook for 20 minutes. The cranberries should have released their liquid.

4. Cook at a low boil for another 20 minutes. Taste for sugar content, and adjust to your taste.

5. Cook at a low boil until thick, approximately 10 more minutes. The berries will thicken as they stand and cool.

6. Remove piece of ginger.

7. Arrange blood orange segments on top for decoration.

Per serving (based on 10): 242 calories; 1 gram protein; 63 grams carbohydrates; 53 grams sugar; trace fat; no cholesterol; 4 milligrams sodium; 6 grams dietary fiber.

Makes 8 to 10 servings

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2 turkey gizzards, cooked (from roasted turkey recipe)

1/4 pound butter

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

2 cups chicken or turkey stock

2 large shallots, diced

1/4 cup cognac

2 sprigs thyme, picked

Kosher salt

Black pepper

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1. Trim and chop the cooked gizzards.

2. Melt the butter in a saute pan, cooking until it starts to foam.

3. Add flour and whisk for two minutes to incorporate and cook the flour. (It should be bubbling while whisking.)

4. Add the cold chicken or turkey stock to the roux, whisking to incorporate.

5. Saute the diced shallots until translucent, add cognac, and reduce by half. Reserve.

6. Add the chopped gizzards, cooked shallots, thyme, salt, and black pepper to the roux/stock pan.

7. Heat slowly over medium-low heat for 10 minutes, or until thick. Serve with turkey.

Per serving (based on 10): 114 calories; 3 grams protein; 3 grams carbohydrates; no sugar; 10 grams fat; 88 milligrams cholesterol; 227 milligrams sodium; no dietary fiber.

215-854-5053

@samanthamelamed