We force-fed a food critic 10 bagels: Here are his mini reviews

For a long time, if someone asked me where to get a good bagel around here, I'd direct them about 100 miles north along the Jersey Turnpike to New York. But a recent survey - a roundup, let's say - has yielded pleasant surprises. I hand-delivered Inquirer food critic Craig LaBan 10 of the region's more promising bagels. Here are his tasting notes.

- S.M.

Fill A Bagel & Breads

This popular Jenkintown bagel spot got moderate marks from LaBan. "It's doughy, chewy. There's no crunchiness on the outside. It's really dense - maybe too dense." The spot also offers a full compliment of sandwiches and schmears. 424 Old York Rd., Jenkintown, 215-887-8577.

Four Worlds Bakery

Made with whole grains and sourdough, this isn't your bubbe's bagel. It's chewy, crusty, and perhaps a bit too far on the rustic side, but with familiar toppings, it pretty closely resembles a bagel. "The whole wheat dough works best with toppings. Toasted, it's fantastic," LaBan said. 4634 Woodland Ave., Philadelphia, fourworldsbakery.com.

Knead

It's worth a visit for the creative menu, but Knead's bagel itself is middle-of-the-road. "It's got a very bouncy core and a pretty good chew, but a lightness that's a little bready to me. There's a dryness to it. But points for toppings. To me, this is the bagel as canvas for interesting toppings." 725 Walnut St., Philadelphia, 267-519-9920, kneadbagels.com.

High Street on Market

Moist and chewy in the center, the crust decorated with tiny blisters and generous toppings (including fennel, flax, and black sesame seeds on the everything), High Street's are bagels as luxury goods. "This is something that has evolved almost past what's necessary," LaBan said. "This is worthy of the national discussion going on at places like Blackseed." 308 Market St., Philadelphia, 215- 625-0988, highstreetonmarket.com.

New York Bagel Bakery

This institution (conveniently next door to a smoked-fish shop) keeps it old school, producing bagels with a shiny crust, fine crumb, and interior chew. They're a little oversize for LaBan, but he proclaimed this "a legitimate bagel." 7555 Haverford Ave., Philadelphia, 215-878- 8080, nybagelsinphilly.com.

Philly Bagels (two sites, Chestnut and South Streets)

One of Philly's few old-school bagel bakeries, these are New York-style bagels made in volume and baked throughout the day. They can be a little stingy on the toppings, but LaBan proclaimed them solid: crunchy and chewy in all the right places. "It has the chewiness you'd expect from a water bagel, but it's not too doughy." Chestnut Street Philly Bagels: 1705 Chestnut St., Philadelphia, 215-299- 9920, chestnutbagels.com. South Street Philly Bagels: 613 S. 3d St., Philadelphia, 215-627-6277, southstphillybagel.com.

Philly Style Bagels

LaBan praised these as his clear favorites, citing the crisp exterior, moist center, and even coating of high-quality toppings, plus the faint malty sweetness from the addition of beer to the boiling water. "You can see the handmade nature of it. It has everything you want from a bagel: the texture and flavor, the crunch and chew." They're small, he added: Buy two. Pop-up shops, 9 a.m. Sundays at Pizzeria Beddia, 115 E. Girard Ave., Philadelphia. Permanent location (opening date pending), 1451 E. Columbia Ave., Philadelphia, phillystylebagels.com.

Redhouse Bagels

This longtime Bensalem standby produces bagels that are too large for LaBan's taste. "It's as big as my head!" he said. "It looks like Wonder bread inside. The crumb isn't dense enough." Though, he conceded, it did have a good chew, and an appealing crunch of cornmeal on the bottom. 1542 Bristol Pike, Bensalem, 215-244-0776, redhousebagels.com.

Rolings Bakery

This hard-to-find bakery produces chewy bagels that will do in a pinch. The ones we sampled were hand-rolled though hardly circular. "It's like the ugly tomato of the bagel world," LaBan said. 7848 Montgomery Ave., Elkins Park, 215-635-5524, rolingsthebakery.com.

Spread Bagelry

Compared to New York-inspired bagels, "it's a different food group," said LaBan, a Spread superfan. "It has a moistness, a sweet aftertaste, the wood smoke, great toppings. It's not as chewy as a New York-style bagel, but it has a handmade quality." 262 S. 20th St., Philadelphia, 215-545- 0626, spreadbagelry.com.