Good Taste: Baked Italian eggs by the square
The Sunday brunch had been going so well for the Tria Fitler Square branch that Saturday hours have recently been added, too. Of course, I only noticed this while shopping at the Square's weekly farmers' market. So when I
The Sunday brunch had been going so well for the Tria Fitler Square branch that Saturday hours have recently been added, too.
Of course, I only noticed this while shopping at the square's weekly farmers' market.
So when I looked up from the leeks and new potatoes already hungry, I simply followed my stomach.
And our impromptu brunch found a new favorite weekend dish: tomato-baked eggs with short ribs and white beans.
Executive chef Karen Nicholas was partly inspired by the shakshuka she used to make in her former gig at Citron & Rose. And this dish is clearly its Italian cousin - the eggs baked in a zesty tomato arrabiata sauce with tender shreds of braised short rib, a few beans, a tangle of microgreens, and a dusting of Parmiggiano-Reggiano.
With grilled bread to sop it all up, the dish is hearty enough to support a drink or two.
And Tria, as always, has options. Beer-centric partner Jon Myerow, says the Schneider Wiesen Edel-Weisse is creamy enough to be suitable for breakfast.
But wine director Michael McCauley is always about the grapes, with the emphasis here on Italian for this dish - a lighter red called Lacrima di Morro d'Alba or, my choice, a dry rosé spumante called "Osé" ($12.50 a glass) from Le Vigne Di Alice to lend this spontaneous brunch some real sparkle.
- Craig LaBan
Baked Italian eggs with braised short ribs and white beans, $11, Tria Fitler Square, 2227 Pine St., 215-309-2245 and triafitlersquare.com.