Good Taste: Duck taco at Revolution Taco
It's actually a handmade scallion pancake in place of a traditional tortilla, griddled hot and wrapped around mounds of tender duck, deeply flavored from a five-spice cure and braise.
I had come for the smoked mushroom tacos because, well, it had been a vegan kind of week.
But then there was duck.
And knowing the kind of talent chefs Michael Sultan and Carolyn Nguyen have displayed for the unconventional at their Taco Mondo food truck, it made sense to indulge that instinct in my first visit to Revolution Taco, the brick-and-mortar shop they just launched near Rittenhouse Square with fellow food trucker Alan Krawitz of Say Cheese.
Good idea.
Because this was so much more than a taco.
It's actually a handmade scallion pancake in place of a traditional tortilla, griddled hot and wrapped around mounds of tender duck, deeply flavored from a five-spice cure and braise.
Topped with tangy plumes of pickled oyster mushrooms, a sweet-tart glaze of house plum BBQ sauce, plus the decadent crunch of deep-fried chicken cracklings (when they're short on duck skins), this was about as far as I could stray after a week of virtuous vegetarian pursuits.
But it felt so right. I ordered a second.
Roast duck taco, $8 for one, $14 for two
Revolution Taco (2015 Walnut St.)