Good Taste: Pork bossam from SouthGate
New riff on bossam wrap Since a change in the kitchen early this year at SouthGate, new chef David Feola has been trying to coax the menu at this Korean-theme gastropub at 18th and Lombard a little farther away from the deep fryer.
Since a change in the kitchen early this year at SouthGate, new chef David Feola has been trying to coax the menu at this Korean-theme gastropub at 18th and Lombard a little farther away from the deep fryer.
Wing fans shouldn't fret.
The crackly crisp and meaty birds slicked in sweet and spicy sauces here aren't going anywhere.
But there's definitely been a push toward some more interesting dishes from the longtime former Vernick sous-chef.
A seared snapper over jalapeño-edamame puree is one example. So are the steamed buns stuffed with tender lemongrass-braised short ribs, glass noodles, and Korean sweet potatoes.
Feola's most satisfying new dish, though, is a hearty, modern play on bossam. Feola marinates a well-marbled hunk of pork shoulder (rather than the traditional belly) in a spicy marinade taught to him by owner Peter Hwang's mom.
It's a mild but balanced blend of gochuchang, vinegar, and sesame oil that penetrates the meat over two days. After a gentle turn on the grill, SouthGate serves the sliced warm meat with crunchy gem lettuce wraps, rice, "scallion-chili," and zippy house-made kimchi.
It's perfect for sharing, and a good reason to look forward to what's next for this ever-evolving pub in the former Tangier. - Craig LaBan
Spicy pork bossam, $20, SouthGate, 1801 Lombard St. Philadelphia; 215-560-8443; southgatephilly.com