Drink of the week: A red from Slovenia

The Tria cafes remain among the city's best destinations to go exploring the most unfamiliar reaches of the wine world. And my most recent Tria-inspired vino-fatuation is the Austrian grape called Blaufränkisch, a thick-skinned and late-ripening red (also called Lemberger, which has been used with some success in Pennsylvania) that has the weight of pinot noir, lush fruit notes, an earthy framework, and mouthwatering acidity that's versatile with food.

Of course, for additional wonk factor, Tria's Blaufränkisch comes from Kobal, a biodynamic vineyard in Slovenia, which Tria wine director Michael McCaulley says is lighter than some Austrian counterparts, with a lingering spice that tastes like paprika. The characterization is accurate when sipped next to a glass of Heinrich, a fine Austrian example available via retail, whose color is deeper purple, with ripe black cherry on the tongue and a bit more of a vegetal, cracked black pepper depth on the finish.

Kobal Blaufränkisch 2013, $11 a glass at all Tria Cafes (but the Taproom) for a limited time.

Available through the PLCB by special order for $17.99 a bottle (code #561570). Heinrich Blaufränkisch 2012, $23.99 (code 72440) in select State Stores (greatest supply in suburban locations).