Korean flavors this year have stepped boldly into the mainstream, but the tradition of tabletop "BBQ" has ironically faded to nonexistence in Center City. Of course, excellent examples still reside in the charcoal-fired braziers of North Philly's best - Kim's, Every Day Good House, Seo Ra Bol. But sometimes a road trip just isn't happening. So the revival of the Miga name in a new space off Hamilton Street is welcome news.

The reboot comes from Jason Kang, 25, a first-time restaurateur (and publisher of the Korean Philadelphia Times) who's friends with the Cho family, who owned the original 15th Street Miga. The recipes have been updated for a menu that covers the Korean standards, from pajun seafood pancakes to good dolsot bibimbap, hot pot stews, and sushi. But barbecue is the reason to come, featuring high-quality meats flavored with good, natural marinades.

Our combo platter featured tender slices of boneless bulgogi sirloin, chewier strips (in a good way) of marbled galbi short rib, and meaty hunks of pork belly grilled crisp over the electric heat (sadly, no charcoal allowed in this neighborhood.)

Prices, as expected, are higher than in North Philly. But it's all a matter of appetite. The combo "for two" could easily have fed three to four. Unless, of course, the recent dearth of Korean BBQ near Center City has made you very hungry.

Korean BBQ combo for two, $69.99
Miga Korean BBQ, 2001 Hamilton St., 215-640-0100; migaphilly.com