Restaurant Chat: A taste is worth a thousand pictures

Craig:

Hello, my hungry friends, and welcome back to the phattest food chat in Philly after a month hiatus. It looks like I took a nice week to be on vacation last week, judging from all the questions regarding the recent Philly Mag story on the Chops lawsuit (and, of course, the fact they printed a very old photo of yours truly). As you know, I’ve declined to talk about the suit while it’s still ongoing. As for the magazine’s decision to run my pic, that’s something I have plenty to say about ... but not quite yet, and maybe not in this forum. Stay tuned. After all, this chat should be about the food, not me. Speaking of which, I just had the most amazing food days in New England. Highlights? Eating a steamed lobster dinner on the beach at Menemsha (in Martha’s Vineyard) while the sun set. Deep-fried belly clams and possibly the world’s best onion rings at Arnold’s in Eastham (Cape Cod). Lobster rolls everywhere. And garlicky clam pizzas worth an hour wait at Pepe's in New Haven.

Elliot:

Craig, I read with much interest the article in the Philly Magazine. I am an avid reader of your column. Do you think that having your picture displayed for all to see will affect your ability to give the candid reviews as in the past? What problems do you think will be presented when you are recognized by owners and staff of restaurants who would probably give you extra special attention?

Craig:

Hi Elliot - Obviously, I wasn't thrilled to learn a picture of me was included in the magazine story. That said, it's an oldie, and I know that picture and at least one other have been circulating through local restaurants for the better part of my ten years here. It hasn't affected my ability to write fair and objective reviews in the past, so I doubt it will change much. It's an obstacle any reviewer has to deal with, because total anonymity is simply, physically impossible to sustain for longer than a month or two. I've always said the key to being a good reviewer is much more about being a good reporter and good eater than simply being a spy.

Kristin:

Hi Craig, are you planning on reviewing Umai Umai at all? We've consistently had very good sushi and sashimi there and our best night was when we let the chef decide on what to serve us.

Craig:

Kristin - thanks for this good report on Umai Umai. I should definitely get back there some day, but there are so many Japanese places opening up, spots for full Sunday reviews are few and far between. My first meal there - a while ago - was pretty good, though I had plenty of nits with the cooked food. I liked the feel of the place, though, which feels very personal. Also, I know the chef there from his earlier post at Teikoku, and think he's talented. It's on the list to check-back.

Chris:

Any recommendations for "fine dining" in Ocean City (and I don't mean Mack and Manco's)?

Craig:

Chris - Ocean City probably isn't on anyone's list as the gourmet capital of the Jersey Shore, probably because its status as a dry town (you can't even BYO) makes it hard. That said, I've found many favorites there over the years - the 4th St. Cafe (in its last season), Nag's Head, Cafe Beach Club (for breakfasts), Brown's (not fine dining, but burgers and donuts I'd drive for), and a charming new cafe called the Dixie Picnic on 8th near the boardwalk that makes some awesome box lunches (great shrimp salad) and delicious "upcakes" cupcake bottoms that give you maximum icing effect. Not exactly fine dining, but truly satisfying Shore fare. There are, by the way, plenty of other good options nearby in Somers Point (The Inlet) and Ventnor (Manna, Sage) and Margate (Dune, Lobiondo).

Jeff:

Craig, I've got a few really good Brunellos brought back from Italy that are just starting to come around. Any BYOBs you could recommend within a 1.5-2 hour radius of Philly that would be worthy of the wines?

Craig:

Jeff - You'd hardly have to go that far out of Philly (or out of Philly at all!) to find some good BYOs worth popping those Brunellos. And Italians are among our strongest BYOs. Here are some of my favorites: Melograno; Radicchio; L'Angolo; Tre Scalini; Branzino; Caffe Casta Diva to name a few. Outside of Philly, you might try Restaurant Alba in Malvern (which I incorrectly labeled "Ristorante" in a recent Or Try These - probably because the owner, Sean Weinberg, has so much Italian influence in his cooking). Of course, it doesn't need to be Italian to make a Brunello sing, but the obvious choices are there.

Chris:

Craig; Any review of or feedback on the Blue Sky Cafe in East Norriton, PA (in the Hillcrest shopping center)?

Craig:

Chris - I've yet to get to Blue Sky yet, but I'll be curious to hear if any chatters have been. Am I going to need to MapQuest East Norriton?

scott h.:

hi, Craig. We have been to Theresa’s Next Door in Wayne several times recently and think it’s worth checking out. 24 taps, mostly Belgian, a bottle list that goes on and on (and unlike Monk’s, is enclosed in plastic and therefore still legible after a week) and food that is a little more upscale. The food can be hit and miss but the ever-expanding cheese selection is awesome. Great looking room, too, though very loud on weekends.

Craig:

Hi Scott - I can't comment yet in detail on Theresa's, but it is definitely worthwhile for anyone scouting great Belgian beer in the 'burbs. I found a new favorite on their list, a Belgian-style IPA from La Chouffe called "Houblon." Wow. At a 9% kick, it will help gloss over any minor deficiencies in the cuisine. Were you the guy (or the gal) with the mohawk?

steve in lewes:

Craig, glad you enjoyed the Vineyard and Cape. Will you be reviewing any of the restaurants up there? And when are you going to visit us down here at the Delaware beaches? Based on all the PA tags all summer, a lot of your readers are!

Craig:

Lewes Man - I hope to get to Delaware's fine beach restaurants sometime ... maybe next year? I've heard nothing but raves. As for the New England trip, that was purely for personal pleasure and hooking up with old friends. That said, I had memorable meals at Arnold's in Eastham (already mentioned), the Net Result seafood market/picnic table eatery in Vinyard Haven (great lobster rolls), a wonderful platter of oysters in Wellfleat on the clamshell patio at Mac's Shack, where I also ate a stupendously fresh bluefish crusted with cracker meal, set over truffled spinach puree that reminded me of oysters Rockefeller. Also, I enjoyed my soft-shell crab club at Alchemy, which is a stylishly upscale bistro in Edgartown (their burger also looked awesome in a Rouge way. For New England at its purest, though, it is impossible to beat the Menemsha Fish Market's steamed lobster dinner picnics, which you can eat right on the beach as the sun goes down. It just doesn't get more wonderful than that.

Curious G:

Craig, I know that reviewing restaurants is your forte, but as a person with a discriminating palate, I was wondering if you recall any great food you have had at weddings/bar mitzvahs/anniversary parties recently?

Harry:

Any new thoughts on Barclay Prime. How does it compare to other steakhouses?

Craig:

Curious and Harry - funny you should ask, because I recently attended what might have been one of the most lavish birthday parties ever at Barclay Prime. (My bar mitzvah docket has been a little slow lately, though that could change this year!) Anyway, Barclay served up a multi-course meal that was truly gold-plated, from the kobe sliders to a ribeye that I still think is the single best grilled steak in the region. Service was very good, though the place still gouges on wine prices. Still, everything was spot-on and they handled a crowd very well. Of course, some bar mitzvah boy would be awfully lucky to celebrate at Barclay. As for other, more traditional party sites, that is definitely not my forte. I just don't get invited anywhere!

scott h.:

i have not had enough hair for a mohawk in a couple of decades, i am sorry to say. my favorite beer find there was the russian river "pliny the younger," a triple ipa (11% alcohol) so one is the limit but what a great beer!

Craig:

aaah, yes ... the pliny limit! We were tickled to hear about the one pliny rule, but then, I realized we were a decent drive from anywhere, and it made perfect sense. As far as I know, there are no such cut-offs at any of the Belgians in the city, but maybe they should. I've seen some folks get mighty carried away with their chalices.

Gregg:

Hi Craig, I recently went to Le Bec Fin again for a wonderful meal. I was wondering if there are any other special occasion restaurants in or around Philadelphia that provide a similar complete dining experience and not just a good meal?

Craig:

Gregg - I'm glad to hear Le Bec is still living up to its reputation. Unfortunately, that palace of Versailles-like French pomp is a total anachronism, a vestige of sumptuous dining elegance and conspicuous expense, that is to my mind singular in this region. The food is significantly more contemporary than it used to be, but the multi-course extravaganza is losing steam in the appetites of modern diners. We simply don't eat that way any more, and I'm afraid the audience (and pocket book) for that kind of blow-out meal is dwindling. There are other restaurants that serve nearly as lofty cuisine - the Fountain and Lacroix come to mind - but neither can quite match Le Bec for its symphonic perfection of the multi-course meal. No one else has such blinding silver. I was sad when Deux Cheminees, a kindred spirit to Le Bec's earlier classic elegance, closed this year. I will simply be depressed if Perrier ever finally gives up his gastronomic jewel.

Sarah, Philadelphia:

Craig, I know you've been asked before about the Mission Grill but I was wondering if you've had the chance to go yet? I have been a few times and I've found it overpriced for the quality of food. The atmosphere also left a lot to be desired as Kelly Carkson and random pop songs blared through the dining room. It was very odd.

Craig:

Hi Sarah - thanks for your note. You are correct, in that Mission Grill seems to have a lot of boosters coming to this chat. Alas, after a couple meals there, I'm not one of them. It has a very slick corporate look to it, like a high-concept chain prototype, and I agree with you on the menu. Expensive and underflavored. The ideas of these dishes - sort of contemporary Southwestern - seem to have a lot of potential. They're colorful and interesting in concept, but the execution is totally bland. It seems more like a place for the corporate happy hour scene than destination worthy of entrees in the mid-$20s. I may go back to give it another chance, but I'm not rushing.

Tonyjlive:

Hey Craig, I have been trying to educate myself on the life of food and wine pairings. I am reading

What to Drink With What You Eat

and was wondering if you could recommend any other books or have any words of wisdom that may be helpful?

Craig:

Tonyjlive - you ask a very good question on a tricky topic. Wine and food pairing is one of the hardest things to master - I know I'm still striving to learn those secrets. One great, classic book to consider is

Red Wine With Fish

, which is a great primer on the basic concepts, the cliches and the unexpected. Canadian writer Natalie Maclean is also tackling the topic regularly with wit in her well-read blog at

» READ MORE: NatalieMacLean.com

. Other authors, among many others, I consider worthwhile - Hugh Johnson, Janice Robinson and Kevin Zraly, who wrote the worthwhile Windows on the World Wine Course.

steve in lewes:

Craig, having a fresh cooked lobster (usually for under $10) right off the docks in Menemsha is one of life's true pleasures ... then, take a good bottle to the beach and enjoy the sunset ... it is something that should be on everyone's must-do dining list! We'll be looking for you next year! But, remember, unlike Jersey Shore we stay open all year!

Actually, Steve, the whole dinner (1-1/2 pound lobster, chowder, and giant stuffed clam) runs about $30 these days, though it's totally worth it. Definitely one of the signature food moments of my recent memory. So, on that bucolic note, I'm calling this chat steamed to perfection! Thanks to everyone who remembered to set aside a little part of this Tuesday afternoon, even after a month away. I'll be back next week for sure, same time, same place. Until then, be well, and eat something worth bragging about!