Wild About: Sushi at the Shore (Cape May)

WHEN IT GOT HERE

- When sushi chef Armiyanto Harry Setiyaki arrived in the United States from Japan in 1984, there weren't many sushi restaurants along the Jersey Shore. So it was a circuitous route, with some time spent working in restaurants in New York and a stint as a line cook at Le Bec-Fin in Philadelphia, that eventually led him to become a sushi master in Atlantic City, first at the Showboat Casino and then at Harrah's.

He left Harrah's last year, but it was at the casinos that Setiyaki began experimenting with the creation of his signature sushi rolls. He wanted the flavors to stay true to sushi traditions, but still reflect the sentiment and taste of the Shore while taking advantage of the amazing array of fresh - sashimi grade - seafood available in the region and from markets around the globe.

So over the years, as sushi has gained mass appeal and appears on even the unlikeliest of menus at the Shore, Setiyaki has evolved into a sushi sensei, often called upon to teach the refined art to budding chefs from New York to Atlantic City. And this summer, away from the glitz and glare of the casinos, Setiyaki's talents have gone front-and-center-beachfront in a new partnership with the Iron Pier Craft House and Cabanas Beach Bar & Grill in Cape May, where he goes heavy on the fresh tuna selections in a succinct list of signature rolls that have sushi lovers swooning.

WHAT THEY ARE - If you start off with the Iron Pier Roll ($20), you may never want to eat any other sushi roll again, because it has everything you could want in a roll - including chopped spicy tuna and avocado topped with seared sashimi tuna and toasted black sesame seeds. That is, until you try the Surf and Turf Roll ($20) - a surf-and-turf-and-sushi-lover's dream rolled into . . . a roll. Made of shrimp tempura, kani, and cucumber, it is delectably topped with seared Kobe beef. The Osaka Oshi ($20) is a fun roll because it is sushi rice pressed into a perfect square and topped with three different kinds of sliced sashimi - chef's choice - and topped again with wakame, furukake, and masago. At the establishment's more casual restaurant Cabanas, located at street level downstairs from the more upscale Iron Pier, the Cabanas Roll ($10) of chopped tuna, scallions, and jalapenos, is topped with chopped spicy salmon. Downstairs is also where Setiyaki's signature Shrimp Fried Rice ($10) is available. The tasty bowl includes shrimp, scallions, bell peppers, carrots, and shallots in a delightful - and plentiful - blend.

WHY THEY ARE SO TASTY - Setiyaki said that over the years, he has paid close attention to what his customers have particularly liked and has honed that into about a dozen different sushi rolls that he considers his signature offerings. "My customers, of course, love tuna and salmon, and I often like to make rolls where they can have the best of both worlds, because the different textures and flavorings meld so well together," Setiyaki said. "I think that over the years, sushi in this country has become more refined, perhaps even more traditional in some way, because customers have become more sophisticated in their tastes for sushi. They are now more comfortable with trying new flavors." Setiyaki said Cape May is perfectly situated for bringing in the best of local seafood - like tuna, oysters, and scallops - while easily obtaining fresh product, such as salmon, from faraway markets. "This is a fun place to be to be doing this . . . to be making sushi in the summertime," Setiyaki said.

WHERE YOU CAN GET SOME - Iron Pier Craft House (609-884-1925) and Cabanas Beach Bar & Grill (609-884-4800) are at 429 Beach Ave., Cape May, N.J. 08204. Both restaurants offer a full menu of American fare besides Setiyaki's sushi offerings. Iron Pier also offers a full range from craft beers on tap. Cabanas is open from 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m. daily during the summer. Iron Pier is open 3 p.m. to 1 a.m. daily through the summer. Hours will vary in the fall and winter. More information may be obtained at www.ironpiercrafthouse.com or www.cabanasonthebeach.com.

jurgo@phillynews.com 609-652-8382

@JacquelineUrgo

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