Restaurant Chat: Chili, Omaha Steaks and tipping
When critic Craig LaBan chats, you never know what will wind up on his plate.

Hello friends, and welcome back to LaBan’s Live Restaurant Chat-a-While, where we throw your hottest Philly food scene questions on the grill and let them sizzle. What’s been on your plates worth talking about this week? I’ve been getting back into groove, with an appetite that’s starting to roar at a heartier fall speed, as you can tell from this week’s Crumb Tracker Quiz. Be the firs to name all three places I ate these dishes and win a signed copy of my book: 1) Antipasto Pugliese (fava puree with dandelion greens; swordfish carpaccio, etc.); 2) Thai beggar’s purses filled with duck (hint: this bright little café is in Delaware County); 3) a pint of Ace hard pear cider and a trio of fish tacos (smoked swordfish; fried mahi; plancha snapper). Ready, set….crumb!
I suspect I’ll be getting a lot of Restaurant Week questions today, as the city’s eaters and eateries gear up for another six day run of three-course $30 menus. More than a 100 places are participating this year, and according to my colleague, Michael Klein, in our new Philly food blog, Food and Drinq -
» READ MORE: http://blogs.phillynews.com/inquirer/foodanddrinq/
- those reservations are going quick. I've always been ambivalent on Restaurant Week, as it's always extra crowded, and the "bargain" menus aren't always the bargains they could be. That said, I also think it's a great way for places that do it right to really introduce themselves to a new audience, so the best Restaurant Week performers will be worth hailing. Anyone with some memorable RW moments and suggestions should definitely chime in today, but I"d like to hear from you all next Tuesday to see how this edition (Sept. 23-28) is going.
Hi- I wanted to ask if you'd had a chance to visit Day by Day (at Night) and tried their desserts. Very good- I had a terrific Baked Alaska. Here's hoping that it's open again next Summer....
Ooops. That message was from "CE".....And no, CE, I haven't had a chance to get to Day by Day recently. But maybe I will. I understand they aren't open for dinner anymore, unfortunately, so it will have to be a lunch visit.....Who makes baked Alaska anymore? Not many people....but when it's done well, it's spectacular.
I've really been enjoying reading the previous chats. Thank You. My question is about restaurants in general. In california restaurants are rated for cleanliness based on a letter rating system and here in Philly they do not. have you ever considered adding a cleanliness rating to your reviews?
Hi James - I suspect those grades in California are rated by government agencies. The City of Philadelphia does the inspections around here, and I believe that information is available to the public online. That said, the Inquirer has reported occasionally on the state of our inspection system, and as of last November (the last article I found) Councilwoman Marian Tasco declared the responsible Health department "grossly understaffed' to maintain the level of inspections suggested by the FDA. So...that is only said to put that inspection data into perspective. Those are spot inspections, and may or may not reflect the real status of cleanliness in your local cafe. As for my own assessments, we used to have a category called "Housekeeping" in my ratings breakdown. It was cut for space reasons, but you can rest assured that any gross offenses would be mentioned in my review. I obviously don't do kitchen inspections, though, which is truly where the biggest dirty dangers to diners lies.
Heard anything about Jose Pistolas yet? Craft beer and burritos, two of my favorites!
3) Old Eagle Tavern?
No...sorry Joanne, that isn't it...
3) Jose Pistolas?
Speaking of Jose Pistola's, yes, PhillyReader, you got it. It's very new, so we can't put too much stock on the sloooow service, but I found the place to be a very interesting scrub-up of the old Copa Too. It is the latest in a small wave of Mexican-themed gastropubs, after Cantina Los Caballitos, (who knew such a genre could exist?), and it has a very small but too the point menu of creative burritos - try the cola-braised pork carnitas - and unusual fish tacos. The mahi in spicy mayo was a decent take on the El Vez classic; the smoked swordfish was like a Mexicanized whitefish salad; the snapper ala plancha was fresh and simple, with a little papaya slaw. Overall, very satisfying for bar food. And the bar has a serious little craft beer selection, lots of Belgians plus local good ones, like a Sly Fox Octoberfest on the hand-pump that was properly cellar-warm and creamy, good maltiness really comes through at that temp. Jose's is definitely worth a shot. Pun intended.
Hi, I've been craving chili - spicy, with beef and beans, and can't think of the last time I had a good bowl... Any thoughts?
Harry - a good bowl of chili is a hard thing to find around here, and I could use some help from the Chatter Gallery. The classic Liz Taylor chili over at London Grill comes to mind. So, too, does the white chili with chicken and tomatillos over at the Good Dog. At Darling's Cafe on 20th (and their other place behind the Franklin Institute on 21st), they make a very odd, but satisfyingly homey take on chili called the Tex-Mex bowl, which blends beef and rice and beans and cheese in a bowl. It isn't Tex-Mex art, but for some reason I like it for a simple lunch. An outstanding chili, though? I'm still looking.
2) Flavor by Thai?
Sorry, PhilaFood. That isn't it...Thai another guess....
Hi Craig. I always enjoy your reviews and articles. A couple of weeks ago, you had mentioned Le Bec-Fin as a last bastion of the grand dining tradition in Philadelphia, if not the USA. I was wondering if you were thinking of reviewing Le Bar Lyonnais as a dining destination in its own right any time in the near future. I was there the other night and had as great a time as I've ever had in the main dining room.
Hi Lawrence - thanks for the report on Le Bar Lyonnais. You make a good point, as I never have reviewed it as a separate restaurant. I admit I've always in my mind thought it as Le Bec's Le Bar - though the menu/format/and feeling of the experience there is distinct. IN some ways, it is more of a bastion of old-time French classics than Le Bec, which has kept up nicely with modern cooking. But with so many new places on the docket to visit, it's hard to find the time for a full review at an old classic so many folks already know. I suppose I owe it to myself (and you readers, of course) to put Le Bar to Le Bell Test someday...
#2 - Sweet Basil's?
Sorry, Barbara. That isn't it either. I'll give you a hint, this place is in Havertown.
Hi Craig, on the home cooking front, what's your take on Omaha Steaks and other internet specialties ?
Hi Jay - I've only eaten Omaha steaks on rare occasion, but I don't recall them wowing me. To begin with, they are frozen, so that's already a strike against for me in terms of pure flavor and tenderness - especially when there are a number of local butchers selling high-quality fresh, never frozen meat. Inquirer Food Editor, Maureen Fitzgerald, however, who more occasionally buys these steaks, reminds me that they are nonetheless quite consistently good (if not great) and are very convenient. In general, I don't find most mail-order/internet food purveyors deliver a quality of product at a value of much interest - especially when you live in a town with as many local food resources as Philly. If you're living in Central Pa, however, they might be much more attractive.
What is the proper amount to tip a delivery driver? We order a lot of delivery and are always confused as to how much to tip. Do I factor in time? Distance? Price? Thanks!
Marty - that is an excellent question, and I have no idea what the proper etiquette really is. We're always flummoxed at my house. Personally, I think restaurant guidelines are a good place to start - 18-20% on the bill before tax. After all, restaurant servers are bringing your food from the kitchen - these guys are driving your meal across town! And there is still plenty of work done on the other end - coordinating and packaging your food, ringing you up, etc. - to merit a decent tip. It really depends on your order, though. So, for example, if your bill comes to $42, I'd probably just round-up to an even $50.
Have you tried out Jose Pistola's yet? I had the burritos and I loved them and the great beer selection.
Yep, Garrett. See our earlier conversation, as JP was Crumb Tracker number 3. Glad you liked it. We liked our carnitas burrito, as well, though the crotchety old fellow at the other end of the bar was grumbling that his chicken taco was "dry as a bone. Someone oughta these guys to put something on it...." You can't please everyone, I guess, and it's still new.
Have you been to Silk City yet? I have heard nothing but good things.
No real comment from me right now on Silk City...though I will say their chocolate-banana bread pudding is awesome.
1 Salento? 2 Thai Pepper? 3 Jose Pistolas?
Andrew - no, on number 2. Number 3 we already know. And YES on number 1. Salento is the new Italian BYO from Davide and Kathryn Faenza, whose Porter Street trattoria, L'Angolo, is one of the trattoria darlings of Deep South Philly. Culinary spirit at their new place near 22nd and Walnut is similar, with authentic specialties from Davide's home region of Puglia, but it's much bigger than L'Angolo, so it's easier to get in. More details on this one in my Oct. 7 review....
First time question submitter. Enjoy your reviews tremendously. I am out in Chester County and have tried some interesting places thanks to your review. Two places I have not seen in your database are the Riverstone Cafe in Exton (a tapas menu that changes every couple months) I have enjoyed several dishes off their newest menu but miss the prosciutto salad) and the Black Lab Bistro in Phoenixville. The Black Lab went through quite a transformation a couple years ago and seems to really add to the Phoenixville scene. I know you loved Majolica.
Hi Congie - thanks for this note. You're right that I've never reviewed the Black Lab or Riverstone, but that's not a reflection on the quality of those places, necessarily. I just haven't yet been for a meal. I try to cover a pretty broad region, from Chester to the Jersey Shore, from New Hope south to Wilmington. I wish I could eat at EVERY restaurant in the region, but it's simply impossible - even with 4-500 restaurant meals a year. So a few places inevitably fall through the cracks farther afield. I've heard good things about both, so perhaps one day I'll make it.
Well, I'd say today's chat is fully cooked. Thanks to everyone for joining in - even if we just missed finding a new Crumb Tracker. The elusive number 2 is a newish little bistro in Havertown called Sukho Thai. It's a bright little storefront on Eagle Road serving up some traditional Thai favorites. The tom yum had a good whipcrack of authentic sour and spice. The beggar's purses were elegant little deep fried pouches filled with moist roasted duck and shiitake mushrooms over a fiery chili glaze. Worth checking out for Thai-ficianados living in Delco. Until next week, then, may you all be well and eat something (preferably three courses of it for $30) worth bragging about!