Restaurant Chat: What is a restaurant's shelf life?

Good afternoon, my hungry friends, and welcome back to the Philly food chat that’s all Phlavan - no filler. What’s been at the top of your food pyramids this week? It’s been a solid seven on the dining scene for me, as you might tell from this week’s Crumb Tracker Quiz. Guess in order which three places I ate these dishes, and win a signed copy of my book: 1) grilled Caesar salad topped with shrimp and crab (with a side of Joy’s meatballs); 2) salt-encrusted striped bass, carved from an enormous fish at an Easter buffet; 3) spicy “tuna balls”. Ready, set….start crumbing!

I'm moving to the Graduate Hospital area. I know you like SIDECAR but I'm looking for a little more. What else do you like?

Robert - G-Ho, as the locals call it (even if the old hospital is now called "Penn at Rittenhouse") is one of the fastest emerging neighborhoods in the city. Aside from the Sidecar, which is putting some effort into some NOLA-flavored charcuterie, there is also Divan, the great Turkish spot on 22nd St., as well as Ants Pants Cafe, a good funky bruncherie on South, Grace Tavern, which has great burgers, fried oyster po-boys and good beers, and LaVa, the super coffee shop with the Israeli flare (awsomely flaky homemade burekas). You also have Roberto Cafe, good whole fish Italian byob, as well was Cafe Apamate for tapas and churros, Pumpkin for New American byob. Lots, and lots of choices.....

Is #1 Devon #2 Phila Fish and Co?

Nope....

Have you been out to Marigold Kitchen in West Philly recently. Amazing menu ideas and I feel it was one of the most consistent meals I have had in this city. Enjoy!

Not yet, David, but I've heard nothing but good things, including from my colleague Rick Nichols, who enjoyed the new chef's updated Southern cooking. As many of you know, I'm a fan of the Southern kitchen, and it's a domain that's one of the city's biggest weak spots. Anyone else out there with a recent Marigold report?

curious service: when the server at a place like le virtu asks how everything is, do you say the gnocchi were doughy and overly rich or do you just smile and say everything's fine, thanks? do you ever complain about the meal you're eating?

Good question, curious service. In general, I don't say much while I'm at the table, as I get a chance every Sunday to share my opinions. But in some cases, for example, if a piece of fish or steak is undercooked, I do think it's a good test to see if a kitchen can fix it. I also find it a nice opportunity to see how a restaurant handles a legitimate complaint. In the case of doughy gnocchi, though, there's really nothing that can be done to help my "research."

Don't forget that Pumpkin also has a market a block east, it is great for takeout sandwiches. When the Sidecar first opened I thought it was just OK. But the past 6 months or so they have really stepped up and improved the food. And the beer selection has also improved with some really hard to find US micros showing up on tap.

You're right about that, pg. The Sidecar has definitely made the improvment I hoped for after a sluggish opening (thus the recent bump-up to 2 bells in an Or Try These capsule review).

1) Joe Pesce 2 and 3 have me stumped

John - You've got No. 1, which I ate at Joe Pesce's Collingswood location. I was very intrigued, both with the dish and the restaurant. A huge half-head of romaine gets a char, then comes topped with tons of sweet crab and sauteed shrimp in a warm Caesar dressing. I've had the grilled romaine before, but the seafood twist was excellent. The restaurant, meanwhile, was a pleasant surprise. Chef Joe Tucker has been around to so many different locations (Joseph's on the Ave., Pompeii, Tucker's, Joe Pesce in Ventor), I was glad to see him behind the grill again cooking. The meatballs (which gave this one away) are a classic. Whole fish - big plump pompano - was also excellent. Nice ambiance, too, with a white panelling that feels like the Shore. Who knew Collingswood needed yet another Italian place? This one is worthy...

it almost being that time of year, do you have any good city bbq joint recommendations? seems like most decent smokers have gone silent recently (Smoked Joint, Zekes, and a few others I believe) and Abners? up in Jenkintown is a bit of a hike. The only other spot I know of is Tommy Gunns...

Truly smoked BBq is difficult to impossible to find in Center City. My real favorite right now in the area is Sweet Lucy's Smokehouse, which is in the Northeast on State Rd. just north of Cottman. But even that is still a hike. Another blind spot someone could work on....

Do you have any general thoughts on a restaurant's "shelf life"? I'm thinking of a place like Pasion that reached a pinnacle and then eventually shut down. Is that a bad thing? Or just part of the natural evolution of a restaurant scene?

Jay - you ask an interesting question, but I think every restaurant has a unique set of circumstances, Pasion notwithstanding. In the case of Pasion, I don't pretend to know all the details of its demise. it was a shame to see how it fell so quickly from the top of the heap. I suspect that a waning interest in the Nuevo Latino cooking was only part of that. My understanding is that the business partners weren't on the same page, and it showed in stability in the kitchen. his business is too inte

(oops! wasn't finished yet! ) As I was saying...this business is too intense for management not to get along. I do miss it though. Pasion was a beautiful place, and chef Guillermo Pernot, at his height, was really one of the most exciting chefs I've ever had the opportunity to review.

Good afternoon Craig. Have you seen grass-fed or grass-finished beef on any menus in center city lately?

Panfried - good question. I've been interested in this myself since reading the Omnivore's Dilemma. You can buy grass-fed beef at farmer's markets, though it's most often frozen. And I know Sonny D'Angelo sells it fresh in the Italian Market. As for restaurants, I'm blanking on a complete list of the ones that do. I believe the White Dog Cafe has made the effort to source and serve it. Also, I think the bison served at Ted's Montana Grill is grass-fed. Can anyone think of other venues serving grass fed beef? Most of what you'll find out there is well-marbled grain fattened meat.

Is Guillermo Pernot still working at cuba Libre?? and if he is hows the food??

Michael - I'm not sure if he is still there, but I did visit Cuba Libre shortly after he came on as a consultant. He had changed the menu and improved it quite a bit (I like the tropical room,, but never was a big fan of actual flavors of Cuba Libre's menu). I haven't been back recently, though. Any recent reports out there?

Jay, Pasion got such great press but I found its clientele subsequently changed (albeit gradually). It went from a hip younger set to older suburban folks (the only curse of high-bell rating - a place ceases to be neighborhood-driven!) Also, they were open 9 years until their head-chef left. Not a bad run.

Ron - I think Pasion always had a wider appeal because Guillermo had made his name at the Vega Grille in Manayunk before coming to Center City. He was a Food & Wine Top 10 chef, and a James Beard winner, so I find it hard to blame his restaurant's demise on the suburban clientele. The restaurant simply started to slip. I noticed this in later meals, when it was downgraded to 3 bells. But you could tell something bigger was amiss - it lacked some energy. They were open about eight years, which is a decent run for many. I thought this was a restaurant, though, that was going to be making an impact for a much longer time.

Speaking of beers, I've been meaning to sing the praises of this Deli (I can't remember the name) on 20th and Chestnut. Probably the best selection I know of in Center City west of the Foodery. Not much to look at from the outside but a good selection of belgians plus a lot of locals.

E-Boogie - you're thinking of the Nosherei, and yes, they have a very good selection of craft beers. I just bought some Anchor Steam Porter there the other day, but they have a full compliment of Belgian and local microbrews. Another little market that surprised me recently was the Spruce Market on the 1500 block. Everything from Chimay to Colt 45.

Where can I get the best fries in town?

Joe - this is one of those hot button issues that I'm rarely satisfied wtih, because when I find a contender, I go back and those crispy sticks have gone soggy. A couple great ones, though, that I find consistent: Five Guys (the fries are better than the burgers), Eulogy (very Belgian, very fritjes), Grace Tavern, and Brasserie Perrier, whose frites rocked my lunch last week.

IMO, the best fries are to be had at Eulogy.

yes, they have to be included on the list.

is #3 morimoto?

no

i heard recently that deery out at majolica was doing his in duck fat. luxxxurious...

Yes, that is a great way to make your fries irresistable. I recall they were cooking them in duck fat at Lacroix, as well, where they also get truffles and parmesan, etc. Sovana Bistro out in Kennett Square also takes its fries super-seriously with a three-day process that you can taste.

Guinta's in the Reading Terminal Market somethimes has fresh grass-fed beef. I buy most of my beef from a farm in Lancaster County and through a Farm to City buying club.

I'm glad you metioned Giunta's, which has been a really nice addition to the RTMarket. In the beginning, I wondered why the market needed another butcher, what with all the other great options (Ochs, Martin, L. Halteman), but this butcher really sells quality stuff, from the ribs to the pork chops and beef. Very friendly and customer oriented (which is a plus, considering how mobbed the more established places are) and the prices are fair.

Some restaurants just chase after trends....you know they won't make it to 3 years let alone 5 but Pasion didn't seem like that to me but if it was a failed business relationship....not much you can do about that

Very well put, Michael. Pasion didn't chase the trends, Guillermo made the trends at Pasion. Although I don't mean to give Rodriguez/Garces short-shrift at Alma de Cuba, I felt Guillermo cooked with a rare passion (no pun intended) and was creating his own cuisine. It's special when someone can do it at that level. But sometimes the best chefs aren't always the best business people or managers or marketers.

I love Korean food- especially when I can eat it at home. I found some good kimchi at VIP deli at 13th and Walnut last week. Do you know of any other grocery stores/delis in center city or south philly where I can find this seemingly rare delicacy, and its accompaniments?

Katie - I saw some kimchi at the new South Street deli, DeliCious Bites next to Pumpkin Market (at 16th) that they said was homemade. Then again, a jar of kimchi goes a long way, so you might as well head to north philly, which is like Korean food paradise. (That was a shameless plug, because Rick Nichols and I teamed up for a big Koreatown cover story for this upcoming Sunday's Image section - bbq, noodles, Korean Fried Chicken and More!)

FYI-Matyson and Bistro 7 do their fries in duck fat and you can taste the love.

craig, I'm having dinner at tinto on friday... anything I absolutely have to order?

Lucky Kooshan. I don't think you can go wrong at Tinto, which is one of my current most-favorites. But here's the list of favorite dishes from my review last year (to which I'd also add the rabbit paella and patatas bravas): MENU HIGLIGHTSCharcuterie; cheeses; banderillas; brochetas of chicken or gambas; montaditos of duck confit, Kobe beef or pork belly; clam rice; lobster revuelto; chipirones en su tinta; cordero; pollito; arroz bomba; mushrooms a la plantxa; white asparagus soup; Scent of a Woman; goat's milk mousse; bananas y azafran.

I can't wait for that article about Koreatown....kimchee, fish cakes, pa chun,....I'm gaing weight just thinking about that food

It was a great food adventure. I probably had six meals up there for this package and discovered something wonderful each visit. Even at the places I didn't love, I found something memorable, like the individual pressurized rice-cookers at Han Chon, a 5th St. bbq place where they steam you your very own cast-iron crock of rice to order. It looks something like the rice-cooker version of an espresso maker.

Do you prefer Supper or James for a birthday dinner?

Tough choice, Paige, as I 'm a fan of both, which are cooking really thoughtful modern cuisine in lovely settings. I say take the best reservation time.

#3 is Misso on Spruce between Juniper and Broad. Those tuna balls are good.

Oh yeah, Andy! You got that one... these are some of the most unusual things i"ve eaten in a sushi restaurant lately. They're essentially a variation on tuna tartare, but look like spicy tuna truffles - minced meat rolled with red spice and crunchy tempura flakes. Surprisingly tasty. I tried not to eat them all, but....

james is more romantic

James is pretty romantic, I'd say. But Supper also has a nice urban vibe that makes you feel like you're "somewhere". Depends on the company...

this question came up after a dinner at talula's when thinking whether or not Brian Sikora got any days off... at most of better Philadelphia restaurants, is it safe to assume that if they're open for dinner, the head chef is there? If not, does that mean avoid weeknights for example?

Well Talula's isn't like most restaurants, Jim. They have total control over the number of meals they book each week, so I'm assuming Brian will be there at every meal. Most exec chefs, though, do take days off, usually Sunday and/or Mondays. But the best restaurants run like clockwork even when the chef is gone.

Hi, Craig! Any word about the opening of Maia in Villanova? Went to Zot last week - mussels were awesome, eveything else food-wise was ho-hum, unfortunately.

Sorry about the ho-hum food at Zot. I enjoyed my meals there last year. As for Maia, this restaurant has been "almost about to open" for well over a year. There are serious people involved here, so I'm sure it's going to happen. But I'll believe it's open when I see it.

#2 fountain?

No, sorry, bgc, but that isn't it. I thought that one would be a gimme, because I wrote a feature last year about the salt-crusted whole fish cooked at this restaurant. (Of course, this is how I know who ISN'T reading the food section!) On that note, I'm going to call this chat perfectly salted and ready to serve. Have a great week everybody, and I hope to chat with you again next Tuesday. Until then, may you all be well and eat something worth bragging about!