Plant-based dishes, from sushi to salatim, to try in Philly
Philly's remarkably deep vegan scene is filled with creative and diverse dishes from smoked corn ribs to mushroom pozole.
It isn’t novel to be vegan anymore. Thanks to a longstanding network of local pioneers, evolving culinary skills, broadening audiences, and improved products that are widely available for chefs to work with, plant-based cooking has ensconced itself in Philadelphia restaurants of all sorts as an essential genre, not simply a fad to placate with veggie pasta of the week.
The produce-based cooking is especially innovative at the city’s top vegan restaurants, three of which (Pietramala, Primary Plant Based, and Miss Rachel’s Pantry) I profiled . But as I spent the past couple months grazing Philly’s remarkably deep vegan scene, I devoured a number of bites worth sharing that demonstrate both the creativity and diversity of plant-based options.
The vegan dim sum from Unit Su Vege carries on a long tradition of plant-based Chinese cooking, and I was impressed with the variety of well made dumplings (the Shanghai variety were my favorite) as well a tasty five-spice glazed mock duck complete with fluffy buns, scallions, and all the fixings. Su Xing House (1508 Sansom St.) is another old favorite in the genre. 2000 Hamilton St., 215-988-1888; unitsuvege.com
The vegan sushi from Tomo Sushi & Ramen goes beyond the usual cucumber rolls to show creativity with key ingredients, subbing marinated tomato for tuna and sweet eggplant for eel. My favorite was the inari tofu skin pockets stuffed with rice and shiitake mushrooms. Fish-based sushi is also available. 228 Arch St., 267-519-0209; tomosushiandramen.com
The salatim platter at Laser Wolf is always the most dynamic highlight at this popular Israeli grill house, with 10 bottomless salads evolving to reflect the season, from cardamom-scented tomato matbucha to smoky kale baba ghanoush, along with Laser’s sublime hummus and fluffy pita. It’s always vegan, and can be had for $21 on its own. No kebabs required. 1301 N. Howard St., 267-499-4660; laserwolfphilly.com
The fried chick’un enoki mushroom sandwich at Nourish is one of the best natural alternatives to chicken, but is best eaten hot while the battered cluster of thin-stemmed mushrooms is still tender. Sarah Scandone’s third location for Nourish in three years, after two fires, also serves one of the best vegan cheesesteaks around, “That Philly Jawn,” which you can wash down with a cup of sea moss tea. 177 W. Girard Ave., 267-761-9242; nourishcafe.net
The squash ‘nduja toast at Redcrest Kitchen features one of the most compelling produce-based renditions of ‘nduja, the spreadable, spicy Italian salami that’s a popular condiment being vegetized now (Pietramala makes one from carrots). Garnishes of manchego and honey at Redcrest can easily be omitted to make it vegan. 625 S. Sixth St., 215-454-6951; redcrest.kitchen
The barbecued corn ribs at Huff N Puff BBQ are sliced with just enough cob left to form long ribs that curl and char in the smoker, absorbing its tangy savor. By far the best item on Huff N Puff’s vegan barbecue sampler. They go well with Huff N Puff’s pork barbecue, too. 246 S. 11th St., 267-239-5617; huffnpuffbarbeque.com
The mushroom pozole at El Chingon is one of several items offered as a vegan alternative (along with aguachiles and tlacoyos) at chef Carlos Aparicio’s charming new Mexican cafe in South Philly. The broth is steeped with mushroom stems, cinnamon, and guajillo chiles before combining with hominy and more oyster mushrooms for a deep and earthy flavor. 1524 S. 10th St., 267-239-2131; elchingonphilly.com
The vegan mixiote at Sor Ynez was one of the first in a recent wave of stunning vegan Mexican efforts. Instead of using the rabbit typical of his hometown, Tlaxcala, chef Alex Tellez here stuffs a bundle of pit-roasted banana leaf bundle with a steamy pile of chayote, rice, celery root, and kale moistened with chipotle broth and smoked eggplant pulp. 1800 N. American St., 215-309-2582; sorynez.com
Supreme Oasis Bakery
I came for the vegan shrimp and grits at Supreme Oasis Bakery , but the big winners at this West Philly vegan soul food takeout hub was the plant-based double cheeseburger bacon “Crunch Wrap” (six-sided fold and all) and popular strawberry cake. 4401 Lancaster Ave., 215-452-5146; on Square Site
The fried oyster mushroom calamari at Monster Vegan is another example of the mushroom’s growing importance in local kitchens. Crisply battered into strips with a side of sweet marinara, they’re a ringer for fried squid and right at home at this vegan version of an Italian diner wrapped inside a kitschy, horror film-themed cocktail bar. 1229 Spruce St., 215-790-9494; themonstervegan.com
There are actually six variations on the Buffalo ranch tofu sandwich at Middle Child Club House depending on whether you want it vegan, vegetarian, or gluten-free. But one thing is certain: This pickle-brined slab of tofu encrusted with corn flakes topped with vegan ranch, hot sauce, and a vegan blue cheese option, is one of the more flavorful slabs of bean curd you’ll sink your teeth into. 1232 N. Front St., 267-858-4325; middlechildphilly.com
The crispy polenta at Bloomsday with kale pesto, hazelnuts, smoked Mycopolitan trumpet mushrooms, and spicy tahini dressing is the perfect vegan nibble to accompany a tour of the extensive list of vermuts and natural wines at this progressive Society Hill tippler’s paradise. 414 S. 2nd St., 267-319-8018; bloomsdaycafe.com
The vegan hoagie at Martha reflects chef Andrew Magee’s clever quest to replicate the texture and flavors of salumi in a traditional Italian with deftly handled produce, fermenting thinly shaved watermelon radish, seasoning zucchini with fennel pollen, layering miso-marinated eggplant and pastrami-spiced Chioggia beets into a roll that’s satisfying to eat. It’s one of the city’s best hoagies of any sort. Period. 2113 E. York St., 215-867-8881; martha.menu
The Spinach Jawn at Batter & Crumbs is essentially a tasty spinach pie, but more specifically, its thin double-crusted pastry is inspired by an Emilian specialty called Erbazzone. 1401 Reed St., 267-319-8852; batterandcrumbs.square.site
The mushroom arancini at Tulip Pasta & Wine Bar is notable not only for the deep mushroom savor of the risotto inside, but for the extra level of cave-aged funk and creaminess that Alexander Beninato draws from two vegan cheeses made by Philly’s Bandit — bloomy rind Maverick and cream cheesy Philly Spread — that have fast become essential ingredients in local chefs’ pantries. 2302 E. Norris St., 267-773-8189; tulippasta.com
The poached rhubarb crowned with a blown-sugar sphere holding vegan whipped cream at Jean-Georges Philadelphia was everything I’d hoped a rarefied plant-based tasting menu on the 59th floor of a famous chef’s restaurant could be. The rest of the experience? Not so much. But JG’s pastry chef left a positive lasting impression by pushing the boundaries of plant-based sweets. Four Seasons Hotel, 1 N. 19th St., 215-419-5057; jean-georgesphiladelphia.com