



Tacos al pastor at Tu Rinconcito
Tu Rinconcito” is Spanish for “your little corner.” The tiny 22-seater that bears this name in Old City is tucked into a sunny, brick-lined corner space on Third Street just north of Market, and could so easily be missed. That would be a mistake, especially if you love tacos.
The menu is fairly straightforward at this casual counter-service collaboration between chef Eugenio Guevara and his daughter, Elena. But the recipes — a blend of flavors from Eugenio’s native Puebla and his wife Ernestina Martinez’s hometown of San Luis Potosí — benefit from an unmistakable handmade touch. The tacos al pastor are a perfect example. The ribbons of pork are cooked on the plancha rather than a usual trompo spit, but remain incredibly juicy and tender. Ernestina’s vivid orange al pastor marinade is bright and zesty, with pineapple juice and guajillo chiles that spark against the micro crunch of minced raw onions and cilantro.
And as always with great tacos, details make all the difference. The succulent meat comes wrapped inside three house-pressed tortillas that are dainty but pliant and warm. Add a splash of the excellent and tangy salsa verde cruda or the earthy and herbaceous salsa rojo from the self-serve salsa bar, and the combo hits yet another level of magnetic force that is all this little corner needs to draw me back for more. Next time? Carnitas and a breakfast burrito. Tu Rinconcito, 17 N. Third St., 445-223-2733, turinconcitophilly.com
— Craig LaBan
Bibingka Waffle at Manong
Manong’s $11 bibingka waffle, available only on their new-ish brunch menu, is startlingly straightforward. You have a crispy, delicate waffle with a delightful chew — pulling it apart with your hands is particularly fun — topped with an enormous cloud of whipped cream. But just as the simplicity of the waffle’s appearance doesn’t prepare you for its eggy, rice flour texture, neither does gazing upon its accoutrements prepare you for their flavors. That cream cloud has salted egg yolk whipped into it, adding a lovely, savory balance to inherently sweet cream. The tiny pitcher of maple syrup is also spiked with spicy ginger for a sneaky kick. All the components come together beautifully. Manong, 1833 Fairmount Ave., 445-223-2141, manongphilly.com
— Kiki Aranita

Soft-shell crab at My Loup
When the season turns from spring to summer, there’s a good chance that chef Alex Kemp will have a soft-shell crab dish on My Loup’s menu. In recent years Kemp’s crab setup has included a highbrow riff on a BLT with roasted tomatoes, shredded lettuce, and bacon bits, and a super-simple version with Hollandaise sauce and caviar. The current plating puts a crispy crab under gem lettuce, spears of fresh asparagus, and a lemony-herby sauce. It’s a delight of contrasting textures and temperatures, and my annual reminder that summer is indeed here. My Loup, 2005 Walnut St., 267-239-5925, myloupphl.com
— Evan S. Benn

Patacón Pintón at Puyero Venezuelan Flavors
If you’re not venturing beyond the arepas at Puyero Venezuelan Flavors, you’re doing it wrong. The casual Venezuelan restaurant with locations on South Street and in University City overstuffs the doughy cornmeal pocket tender beef and juicy roast pork, but the real magic is in everything else on the menu: buttery tequeños with cheese pulls that put even the best mozzarella sticks to shame, crispy tostones, and the patacón pintón, a sandwich that brings one of my favorite intrusive thoughts: What if maduros were bread?
The patacón pintón comes served on two giant pieces of caramelized sweet plantains piled high with shredded beef, black beans, and white cheese with a creamy green mayo. The maduros are surprisingly sturdy and add an extra dimension to an otherwise very salty — and heavy — sandwich. I think more sandwiches should come like this. Puyero Venezuelan Flavors, 524 S. Fourth St., 267-928-4584, puyeroflavor.com
— Beatrice Forman



