



The best things we ate this week
We got around to Ken’s Seafood, Ray’s Cafe & Tea House, La Belle Epoque, and SoVo Caphe, a new coffee shop in Port Richmond.
By Beatrice Forman, Michael Klein, Julia Duarte, Kiki Aranita
Grilled pork over rice at SoVo Caphe
he corner of Somerset and Edgemont Streets has long held a special spot in my heart — first housing the luxe Napoleon Cafe, which introduced espresso and cafe culture to Port Richmond in 1990, and later Hinge Cafe, a neighborhood bruncherie and art gallery whose 10-year run ended in 2023. Filling those big shoes now is the cute and sunny SoVo Caphe, which opened three weeks ago with a menu of Vietnamese phin-brewed coffees, teas, and matcha drinks, banh mi, rice platters, and desserts. The daughter of restaurateurs in Vietnam, owner Nicki Nguyen came to the United States 14 years ago as an international student, met her husband in New York, and moved to Philadelphia about eight years ago. (The name is a play on SoHo; her husband’s last name is Vo.)
From the kitchen, you’ll find hearty brunch platters (priced from $14 to $17.50) like the bánh mi chao. Listed as “skillet bread,” it comes with a Vietnamese meatball, pork roll, ham, fried egg, and pate, with a side of bánh mi. There are also sunny-side-up egg-topped rice platters heaped with generous portions of proteins such as grilled pork (shown above), chicken, and beef, plus nine varieties of bánh mi, including a vegetarian one with lemongrass tofu. SoVo Caphe, 2652 E. Somerset St., 215-930-8884, www.instagram.com/sovocaphe
— Michael Klein

Chèvre fouetté at La Belle Epoque
Who knew something as simple as whipped goat cheese could be so divine? This sweet appetizer from Media’s cozy French bistro La Belle Epoque was a much-needed light palate cleanser during an otherwise heavy meal of garlicky escargot, filet mignon, and roast duck. The goat cheese mousse (seasoned with thyme and lemon) was so airy it felt like I was dipping my teeny toasts into a cumulus cloud. The toppings are also rather simple — just diced strawberries, fig jam, and a smattering of pecans — but feel decadent when you manage to get them all in one bite, kind of like a really good sundae. Ever the sweet tooth, I have always argued that appetizers don’t need to be savory to stand out. And ever the snacker, I have also always believed that the best bits of a meal feel like something you could re-create at home but weren’t smart enough to think of first. This cheese plate has already made it into my midday pick-me-up rotation. La Belle Epoque, 38 W. State St., Media, 610-566-6808, labellebistro.com
— Beatrice Forman

Dumpling sampler at Ray’s Cafe & Tea House
While this Chinatown staple is known for siphon coffee and extensive tea selection, the homemade dumpling platter is the true standout at Ray’s Cafe & Tea House. The plate features six beautifully hand-pleated dumplings in three flavors: pork and leek, pork and napa cabbage, and chicken curry. The steamed pork and leek dumplings are savory and rich, balanced by the leek’s mild sweetness. Each bite was satisfyingly juicy, almost reminiscent of a soup dumpling without the mess. The pork and napa dumplings lean more traditional, showcasing a carefully mastered Chinese recipe from owner Grace Chen, who opened Ray’s 37 years ago. The biggest surprise, though, was the fried curry dumpling. Filled with soft, creamy potato and fragrant curry spices, the dumpling’s deeply crunchy fried shell delivered a satisfying bite. With an empty platter sat in front of me, I couldn’t help but wonder why I had ever gotten lunch elsewhere. Ray’s Cafe & Tea House, 141 N. Ninth St., 215-922-5122, rayscafephilly.com
— Julia Duarte
Jellyfish at Ken’s Seafood
I love eating jellyfish, not simply because it’s delicious, but because I consider the act a beautiful form of revenge. “You may be able to sting me, but I can eat you,” is something I tell a dish of jellyfish whenever I encounter it. And that is exactly what I did recently at Ken’s Seafood. The jellyfish ($17.95) was crisp and cool, with an inherent gelatinous crunch, like japchae but with tentacles instead of glass noodles. Dusted with white sesame seeds and lightly spiced with chili peppers, the tentacles were tangled with a few carrot shavings, which created a lovely textural vegetable foil. It was perfect for a hot day and as an opening to a meal of roasted duck with fabulously crispy skin, and the most delicately steamed flounder. Ken’s Seafood, 1004 Race St., 215-925-3837
— Kiki Aranita


