The best things we ate this week

I was thrilled to see the Ríos family had completed a sleek wooden revamp of the dining room of their classic taqueria on South Ninth Street, a tangible mark of success and longevity for a multigenerational business that, 13 years ago, became one of the original anchors of Puebladelphia’s “Calle Nueve” slice of the Italian Market. I was even more delighted to note that nothing has changed in the traditional specialties that have made them one of the standard-bearers of the San Mateo Ozolco-style moles and tamales that South Philly holds dear.

The mole Poblano remains my pick for the city’s best, largely because restaurant founder and matriarch Ines Sandoval still makes the base in Puebla and ships it to her sons, Javier and Perdo, who rehydrate it with chicken broth and cook it down into a deep mahogany puree that presents a beguiling brew of chocolate, pasilla chiles, plantains, nuts, and animal crackers and unfolds like a spell that starts sweet, then weaves in notes of richness, bitterness, and then a lingering spice. The mole is most traditional as a platter with stewed chicken legs, black beans, and rice, but can also be ordered over enchiladas or scrambled eggs. — Craig LaBan

I had a Ratatouille movie critic moment last night at Dan Dan. I had somehow forgotten that stir fried “doufu gan” ($26.45), a dried and pressed tofu, had been something I ate at home in Hong Kong, probably once a week growing up. The memories came rushing back when I tasted it at Dan Dan. It’s a much denser type of tofu, and it’s stir-fried with pork, squid, and scallions. Eating it with plain, steamed white rice makes rice taste more floral and fragrant, and it’s a clever way to stretch the use of pork or not consume too much pork. It’s absolutely delicious. — Kiki Aranita

We’re in the heart of summer now, which means sweet corn is popping up on menus across town in myriad creative ways, from pizza (at CHAR) to cavatelli with chanterelles (Vernick Food & Drink) and for dessert with ice cream at (Irv’s). None, though, were as transporting as this extraordinary plate of caramelle dumplings at Her Place Supper Club. Offered as an add-on ($22) to the prix fixe menu this week, this stuffed pasta delight, named for its likeness to a wrapper-bundled candy, was filled with a silky gush of corn puree. The supple-yet-snappy pasta was perfect. But it was the garnish that made my eyes light up: the surprising tang of blue cheese softened into cream, then the roasty snap of brown butter-toasted buckwheat grains scattered over top. Salty, sweet, funky, creamy, earthy, crunchy. It brought so many contrasts in a single bite, but all in perfect harmony to capture both the essence and unexpected possibilities of one of summer’s most fleeting treasures. — Craig LaBan

Salted egg yolk is one of my absolute favorite flavors. I love it on everything — dusted on chicken wings or crispy salmon skins, mixed into white chocolate or soft serve (when you see it as soft serve in Hong Kong, the crowds go wild), or sprinkled onto potato chips. It works wonderfully with things that are sweet and fried, so the tempura-ed corn kernels at Jiang Nan ($18.95) are a perfect vehicle for it. This is an incredible dish — a perfect balance between sweet and salty, and the crispy exterior of the corn kernels that give way to a juicy pop of sweetness — make it an exceptionally fun one to eat. — Kiki Aranita

It’s hard for me to pick a favorite course at Ogawa, one of the best omakases in Philly and likely beyond. This tuna course is a showcase of three prime cuts from different parts of the fish, with significantly different fat contents. But what I love about it isn’t just the luxury of fatty tuna, uni, or high-quality fresh wasabi, but that the center portion is topped with chef Carlos Wills’ aerated soy sauce. This may look like a modernist foam, but it isn’t molecular gastronomy. It’s an old method that Wills uses to preserve soy sauce with egg whites. It’s less salty than a typical brush with soy sauce, and it hovers above the sashimi like a savory meringue. — Kiki Aranita

As a Maryland boy, I delight in crustaceans in all their forms. However, under normal conditions, crab cake of any kind is hideously expensive. Not so at Honey Food Truck on Temple University’s campus, where a rock crab burger will only set you back $10 (or $12 if you insist on having french fries). This beloved establishment is best known for its crispy avocado chicken wrap — also notably delicious — and boba tea. But I come here to praise the exceptionally tasty crab burger, which soothed my homesickness and didn’t wreak havoc on my wallet. Usually Honey Food Truck is open Monday- Friday, 11:00-3:30, and prepare for a line. — Jake Blumgart