The best things we ate this week

So much of the menu at Alice in the Italian Market showcases big, smoky flavors from the kitchen’s coal-fired oven. My favorite way to enjoy those dishes (don’t miss the oysters or roasted chicken!) is to punctuate them with the menu’s lighter and brighter options. Case in point is this tagliatelle with spigarello pesto, black truffle shavings, and pecorino. I had to Google “spigarello” and found that it’s an heirloom Italian green in the same family as broccoli. And that made sense: The pesto was earthy, with just the right amount of bitterness. It’s a perfect partner for fresh, bouncy pasta, which is an ideal counter to all of Alice’s smoke-kissed goodness. Alice, 901 Christian St., 215-798-6766, alicephiladelphia.com

— Evan S. Benn

This cheesy and fruity brunch appetizer was a delightfully tasty surprise on a menu full of delicious classics. It was my first time brunching at the Love and this unexpectedly memorable dish still has me daydreaming. The combination of burrata, pears, fig jam, greens, and pine nuts worked so well on a slice of soft, luscious ciabatta that I found myself enjoying something salad-y at a meal when I typically opt for eggs or sweets. (Of course, I made sure to try the cranberry-orange scones and lemon-poppy seed pancakes, too, which didn’t disappoint.) The Love, 130 S. 18th St., 215-433-1555, theloverestaurant.com

— Rosa Cartagena

I love a gimmick, so I jumped on the pop-up sale for the viral, venture-backed, bagel-minimalism chain PopUp Bagels when it came to Di Bruno Bros. last weekend. The $24 bag included three plains and three everythings, plus the scallion cream cheese I’d preordered.

They’re good bagels! They were well-toasted on the outside and fluffy on the inside. The everything bagels were heartily seeded and seasoned. They came warm and fresh, and were thus easy to rip apart and dip in the schmear, as the brand encourages. I devoured one in its entirety within about a minute of leaving Di Bruno’s, then another at home, then another the next morning after a light spritz with water and 30 seconds in the microwave (it came out a little chewy, but it held up).

But listen — the city already has plenty of great bagels that do not come from a Connecticut-based startup. Take Knead Bagels, my Center City go-to, or Cleo Bagels, my West Philly fave, whose bagel sandwiches are so densely stuffed, you could eat them with a fork. At Cleo, you can even get a garlic za’atar bialy or a bagel topped with lavender seeds. Call it bagel maximalism.

PopUp’s first area storefront is set to open in Ardmore early next year. They’re not bagels you need to travel for, but they are the kind of simple, grab-and-go bagels you’d be excited to eat if a coworker brought a box to the office. PopUp Bagels, coming soon to 10 Coulter Ave., Ardmore, popupbagels.com

— Julie Zeglen