The best things we ate this week
Peach pizza at Pizzeria Stella, silver-dollar pancakes at Gass & Main, and a juicy steak at an Upper Darby newcomer.
Huarache Teresita at Tlali
I visited the new Tlali, a Mexican BYOB in Upper Darby. Puebla-born Alberto Sandoval, who worked for two decades in Philly fine-dining kitchens such as Lacroix, Striped Bass, and Volvér, is back cooking family recipes at Tlali, a modest, cash-only BYOB he opened last month with his brother Efrain in Upper Darby. Sandoval cuts no corners on the menu. His father’s chile marinade (apparently a hit back home in San Mateo Ozolco) tenderizes the pork shoulder in his tacos al pastor. His mother’s nixtamalized heirloom corn masa is used in all sorts of dishes, including what I think is the standout: the huarache Teresita, a seared 12-ounce rib eye with cactus salad and charred tomatillo salsa atop the thick corn base. Tlali, 7219 West Chester Pike, Upper Darby; 484-466-3593; instagram.com/tlalirestaurante
— Michael Klein
Table pancakes at Gass & Main
There are so many intriguing options on the lunch/brunch menu at chef-owner Dane DeMarco’s Haddonfield gastropub-meets-BYOB that it is genuinely hard to choose. Should you go for the dill-laden pickle ranch wedge salad (yes), grilled cheese and tomato soup (yes), or the cheese ball (also yes)? What about pastrami lox benedict, gnocchi mac and cheese, or the wagyu hot dog? Whatever your picks are, absolutely order the ingenious “table pancakes” appetizer: a towering stack of silver-dollar pancakes so tall, the kitchen spears them with skewers to hold them aloft. The fluffy cakes are inherently buttery, faintly sweet, and perfectly crisped, and served alongside tiny ramekins of maple syrup and jam. Be advised that Gass & Main’s dining room is small and its brunch prowess is no secret to locals; reservations are recommended. Gass & Main, 7 Kings Ct., Haddonfield; 973-721-3179; gassandmain.com
— Jenn Ladd
Peach and sopressata pizza at Pizzeria Stella
The week’s special at Stephen Starr’s Headhouse Square pizzeria came topped with fresh mozzarella, honey pecorino, a little parsley, spicy soppressata, chili flakes, plus burrata and deliciously juicy roasted white peaches. The pie is finished with a little bit of olive oil. I definitely licked my fingers after eating a slice because the peaches were so juicy! Pizzeria Stella, 420 S. Second St., Philadelphia; 215-320-8000; pizzeriastella.net
— Ariane Datil
Matcha-limon aguacate soda at La Jefa
La Jefa is my favorite cafe to work out of in the city. I don’t drink too much coffee, but I make an exception for its totomoxtle latte. I don’t know how they do it but they make it with corn husk, burnt tortilla, espresso, and milk. This week, though, I followed that up with their matcha-limon aguacate soda. And oh boy! I always love a fizzy cold tea but this beautiful concoction of their house soda fermented with avocado leaves, lemon, and matcha is delightful. It’s garnished with an avocado leaf. All the fermentation is done in-house and comes straight out of taps in their beautiful front cafe. For those who complain that matcha tastes like mud (I am not one of them!), this should be your matcha gateway drink. La Jefa, 1605 Latimer St., Philadelphia; 215-475-5500; lajefaphilly.com/nuevo
— Bedatri D. Choudhury