This chef has the hardest assignment — creating good food that pleases his very vocal pre-K critics
“There is no filter on children,” said Matt Ferry, who has been head chef for his pint-size clientele at Children’s Village since 2013 .
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Matthew Ferry doesn’t have a child. He has 425 children — more or less. The lunch rush is over and he is tired and it’s hard to remember the exact number.
”Just say a little over 400 from infancy to out-of-school-time youth who are 13 years old,” adds a helpful PR person. They are all youth who attend Children’s Village Child Care Center in Center City.
What Ferry, kitchen administrator and head chef, doesn’t forget is every day they need to be fed. Breakfast, lunch, snacks. Menus need to be prepared months in advance and aligned with what is in season. He has to account for dietary restrictions and allergies. Plus, the government has a long list of its own nutritional demands.
Everybody’s a critic
Every day Ferry and head cook Stephanie Chisholm face 400 kids that are like Eagles’ fans. The children may treat the duo like rock stars when they see them, but that doesn’t mean they don’t have very strong opinions about their daily efforts.
“There is no filter on children,” Ferry said.
“No to green,” complained one 3-year-old on a feedback survey submitted by his teacher.
Ferry’s interpretation: thumbs down on vegetables.
“My mouth is fire,” added another.
Interpretation: The food is too spicy.
The unintentional career
It was a breakup that brought Ferry to Philadelphia. “I needed a change of place,” he said.
When a neighbor suggested working at Children’s Village as a substitute cook in 2009 — Ferry thought why not. The hours were good, not like the restaurant work he did after culinary school. It meant he could finally hang out with his friends on Saturday night. “Kitchen life has its own particular set of hours,” Ferry said.
The job was a stopgap measure on his way to something else.
He was asked to take over the kitchen in 2013, and he has been “Chef Matt” to a pint-size clientele ever since.
“I never thought I’d work in child care and be a ‘lunch lady.’ I never thought that,” Ferry said, laughing.
His interest in food started early as a matter of survival. “Neither of my parents could cook,” he recalled. “It started with basics — baking a cake from a box mix.” It led to graduating from the Texas Culinary Academy, which is affiliated with Le Cordon Bleu Schools North America, in 2006.
Gourmet food in child care
Ferry joined Children’s Village at a time the school was rethinking what it served children.
Back then Children’s Village was on the cusp of a national trend moving from serving highly processed school meals to providing home-cooked meals using local ingredients. Because the school has a multicultural student body, it was also important to include everyone’s cultural cuisine.
» READ MORE: Children’s Village director pushes back on the ‘fastfoodification’ of school food
“My cooking philosophy has always been first, to cook with fresh ingredients, but also to cook with love and soul,” Chisholm said. “I will always put in the extra energy to provide the tastiest and healthiest meals for children because this is their first experience at tasting different flavors from different cultures.”
The care and feeding of a picky eater
Trying to feed a picky child a healthy diet can exasperate even the most patient of parents.
Ferry feels your pain and his first word of advice: Chill.
“Don’t get discouraged if a child begins to turn up their nose. Or it was something they did eat and suddenly don’t eat it on a whim,” Ferry said.
He recalled that “peas and carrots aren’t a big favorite but they love corn. Cream kale didn’t go over well.” Ferry will continue to try failed meals, using different techniques: “A child may not like boiled broccoli but may like roasted broccoli.”
Although black beans have never been a hit in the years he has been serving lunch at Children’s Village — the children think they look like bugs — Ferry continues to offer them at least twice a year so the children will continue to try it.
“One thing that I have learned with children is that if you involve them in the process of cooking, they will be more willing to try what they have made,” Chisholm added.
Classic food favorites
If Ferry and Chisholm left menu planning to the youngsters, it would be nothing but pasta. Chisholm said that mac-and-cheese with turkey ham is one of their most-requested meals, but there are always signs that the palate is broadening.
“Recent new menu items, such as soy ginger chicken and garlic noodles, have been a successful dish the kids absolutely enjoy,” Chisholm said.
Ferry said baked salmon, Indonesian beef, banana bread, frittata, steamed broccoli, and roasted sweet potatoes are longtime favorites. He turns to websites and bloggers — like Once Upon a Chef — for inspiration.
“Many parents in recent years have requested recipes for certain menu items, such as oatmeal and garlic green beans,” Chisholm said. “We are always happy to provide our recipes so that their children can enjoy their food and eat healthy at the same time.”
“In terms of introducing children to global flavors, starting with something familiar such as beef stew and then using different spices and aromatics can make a huge difference in exposing children to new flavor profiles,” said Ferry, adding, “I have included a recipe for the Indonesian beef stew we serve at the center which is a big hit.”
Kid-friendly recipes
Soy Ginger Chicken
Ingredients
1/3 cup low sodium soy sauce
1/4 cup packed brown sugar
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger
Juice of 1 lime
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon sriracha
2 1/2 pounds boneless chicken thighs
Salt and pepper, to taste
Sliced green onions and chopped cilantro, for garnish.
Instructions
In a medium bowl, whisk together the soy sauce, brown sugar, oil, ginger, lime juice, garlic, and sriracha.
Marinate chicken in sauce overnight.
Discard marinade and bake chicken for at least 45 minutes. The internal temperature should be 165 degrees Fahrenheit.
Transfer the chicken to a platter and garnish with sliced green onions and cilantro. Serve warm.
Serves 4
Garlic Noodles
Ingredients
10 oz. of Asian style noodles or pasta
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
2 teaspoons low-sodium soy sauce
¼ teaspoon sesame oil
1 tablespoon brown sugar
¼ teaspoon white pepper
4 tablespoon unsalted butter
6 cloves fresh garlic, minced`
⅓ cup Parmesan cheese, grated
¼ cup green onions
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, optional
Toasted sesame seeds for garnish
Instructions
Cook noodles or pasta to al dente according to package instructions (cooking time will vary). When the noodles are soft, reserve 1 cup of the boiling noodle water and strain. Rinse the pasta with cold water. Set aside.
Combine the oyster sauce, soy sauce, sesame oil, brown sugar, and white pepper in a small bowl. Whisk to combine and set aside.
Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, approximately 30-60 seconds. Add the sauce to the garlic butter and mix well to combine. Bring to a slight simmer.
Add the cooked noodles to the simmering sauce. Gently toss to combine. Remove from heat.
To thicken the sauce, add some of the reserved noodle water until desired consistency is reached. If the sauce becomes too thick, add some water, vegetable broth, or chicken broth, as needed.
Sprinkle with the grated Parmesan cheese, green onions, and red chili flakes. Mix to combine. Serve immediately.
Serves 4
Indonesian Beef Stew (Semur daging)
Ingredients
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 1/2 pound beef chuck, cut into 1 ½-inch pieces
1/3 cup sweet soy sauce (ABC brand kecap manis)
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons flour (plus more for dusting)
3 cloves garlic, minced
3 shallots, minced
3-inch piece ginger, grated
2 red bird’s eye chili peppers, thinly sliced (seeds and ribs removed for less heat)
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon grated nutmeg
½ teaspoon ground cloves
1-2 bay leaves
2-3 carrots, unpeeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
¾ pound red new potatoes
2 tomatoes, ¼-inch dice
3 scallions, thinly sliced
Cilantro, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
Instructions
Heat 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large heavy-bottomed pot. Season beef with salt and pepper and then dust with flour. In batches, sear beef for 1-2 minutes on each side until browned. Set beef aside on a plate until all the beef is browned.
Add remaining 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil, if needed, then add shallots and garlic, cooking 2-3 minutes until fragrant and shallots are slightly softened. Stir in the chili peppers and ginger, cooking another minute. Add the seared beef. Mix well and cook 1-2 minutes. Sprinkle in the flour and stir, cooking another 1-2 minutes until slightly browned.
Stir in cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg. Add the bay leaves, sweet soy sauce, dark soy sauce, and 4 cups of hot water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium low. Cover the pot and simmer for 1 hour.
Add the carrots and potatoes and simmer for another 30 minutes or until beef is tender. Stir in tomatoes, and half of the cilantro and scallions. Cook another 5 minutes.
Ladle stew into bowls and garnish with remaining cilantro and scallions. Serve with steamed rice and additional vegetable, such as steamed broccoli, on the side if desired.
Serves 4