I fell in love with pozole years ago in Mexico City. Though the city has many other merits, including a staggeringly diverse and fascinating food culture, it’s truly my craving for pozole that‘s brought me back again and again. The good news is you don’t have to go all the way to Mexico City for excellent pozole. (Although in Mexico City, you can buy it by the literal bucket.)
In general, the Mexican stew consists of meat and hominy, or large, nixtamalized corn kernels. There are several different styles of pozole, coming in as many colors as contained within the Mexican flag: rojo (red), green (verde), and white (blanco), and differing according to region.
Pozole isn’t just about the thick stew itself, chunky with large hominy kernels, with hunks of beef, chicken, or pork interspersed with them. It’s about the fixings, in the same way congee is as much about the garnishes as the porridge itself. You’ll find shredded cabbage, sliced radishes, crispy tortillas, and lime wedges most frequently, but also tostadas smeared with refried beans, quesadillas stuffed with Oaxaca cheese, little bowls of crema, puffed up and crispy chicharrones, and big, generous slices of avocado.
Here are a handful of places to sink into a bowl of pozole in Philly. This is not a comprehensive list, just a place to start. And if anyone does invite you over to their mom’s house for pozole, your answer should most certainly be yes. (In fact, please call me if someone does. I would like to come, too).
La Jefa
La Jefa’s delicate pozole ($17) is not the hearty bucketful I was accustomed to consuming in Mexico City. It’s lighter brunch fare and consists of pulled chicken and hominy with chile de arbol, oregano, minced shallots, lime and a couple of blue corn tostadas.
“It’s a chicken based pozole rojo inspired by the pozole from a place in Zapopan, Jalisco called La Escolastica. We use fresh hominy which makes all of the difference. The tostadas are made from Cristina Martinez’ masa,” said David Suro, who remains an active presence in the cafe and its conjoined restaurant, Tequilas
La Jefa Cafe, 1605 Latimer St, 215-475-5500, lajefaphilly.com
Café y Chocolate
South Philly’s Café y Chocolate serves a pozole rojo ($15) with two yellow corn tostadas spread with a thick layer of refried beans upon which is pressed lettuce, radishes, queso fresco and drizzled with crema. It has diced chunks of pork and no bones, unlike the pork knuckles submerged in the pozole of Los Potrillos. This is the most opaque of the pozoles on this list, and spiciest. I also love Café y Chocolate’s creamy elote soup and their hearty tortilla soup.
Café y Chocolate, 1532 Snyder Ave, 267-639-4506, cafeychocolatephiladelphia.com
La Llorona
I got La Llorona’s pozole ($18) delivered on a frigid winter day. It didn’t come in a bucket, but it did fill up a quart container. Theirs is essentially a pozole blanco (but you can also get rojo or verde). This is a clear white broth with pork, hominy, and oregano. It’s served with three tostadas painted with refried beans, drizzled with avocado crema and sprinkled with queso fresco. Shredded lettuce and matchsticks of radish come on the side. I highly recommend you get a quesadilla for dipping into the soup.
This is perfect for those who might be spice averse (though the tostadas pack a bit of heat). The flavor is deep, porky and herbaceous, but not too chili-forward. The pork is extremely tender, even silky.
La Llorona, 1551 W Passyunk Ave, 215-515-3276, lalloronaphilly.com
Los Potrillos
Los Potrillos’ pozole rojo ($18) is a deep red from guajillo chilis. Mine comes with enormous pork knuckles with their skin on. On the side are three plain yellow corn tostadas, big juicy lime wedges, and shredded lettuce and cilantro. The pork is fall-off-the-bone tender. I like to crush up the tostadas and sprinkle them in the hefty bowl like croutons. It’s intoxicatingly delicious when spiked with lots of lime juice.
Los Potrillos, 2617 E Venango St, 267-323-2669, lospotrillosrestaurantpa.com