he khao soi at Baan Atelier in Conshohocken makes a dramatic entrance: The shimmering pool of sunset-orange coconut curry arrives with a tangle of soft egg noodles and a tousled crown of crisp, golden fried noodles flanked by thick slices of braised beef shank. Cilantro, chopped red onion, and pickled mustard greens provide flashes of green and purple.
It’s a dish that seems right at home in the lovely, elegant surroundings of Baan Atelier, the Northern Thai BYOB that opened in May in the former Blackfish space at 119 Fayette St. It’s the posher sibling of the long-running Chiangmai across the street, which delivers familiar favorites such as pad Thai, pad kee mao, stir-fries, and curries in a casual setting.
Baan Atelier takes a more refined approach, emphasizing Northern Thai specialties, along with more elaborate preparations informed by French technique.
Executive chef and partner Kwan Charoennan offers khao soi with chicken or beef. The meltingly tender beef shank is braised for at least five hours until tender, then rolled into a roulade to help it hold its shape before being sliced into substantial rounds. The dish is a satisfying interplay of textures and flavors, with the fried noodles delivering crunch against the soft, slippery noodles beneath.
The velvety broth balances coconut richness with chile heat and savory depth. The red onion, cilantro, and tangy pickled mustard green garnishes cut through that richness, keeping each spoonful lively.
In sum, it’s the sort of elaborate presentation that makes you reach for your phone camera before your fork, though the aromas rising from the bowl make delaying that first bite difficult.
