Emilia

In his 2026 review of James Beard award-winning chef Greg Vernick’s new Italian restaurant, Craig LaBan sang the praises of the capellini glazed in an emerald froth of pesto (“My forkful smelled like a summer garden, but shaded by the richness of crushed pine nuts, grated cheese, and sweet garlic”), the tortellini en brodo (“the clear broth and nutmeg-scented mortadella dumplings were so perfectly crafted, they harmonized like a moving duet in the bowl”), the fried artichokes (“a wonder of ruffled crunch, whose greaseless, tender plumes tumble over green parsley aioli dappled with sweet balsamic”) and that’s not all. “There are so many irresistible plates on the top two-thirds of this menu, but there are also several entrees worth ordering at least to share. Two distinct fish dishes — a meaty hunk of wild striper over saffron-tomato aquapazza broth; and a butterflied whole sea bream grilled into a crispy-skinned sail over salsa verde — are reminders this team, also with experience at Vernick Fish, can cook seafood with the city’s best.”