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Nagpuri kothimbir vadi are crispy gram flour pastries stuffed with well-spiced fistfuls of tamarind-tanged cilantro at Nagpuri Saoji.
Nagpuri kothimbir vadi are crispy gram flour pastries stuffed with well-spiced fistfuls of tamarind-tanged cilantro at Nagpuri Saoji.Read moreCraig LaBan / Staff

Nagpuri Saoji

Indian$-$$

Says Craig LaBan: For seekers of hauntingly complex sauces, there is one dish — the famously fiery Saoji curry simmered with goat — that is worth the drive to the Voorhees strip mall where Nagpuri Saoji serves up a rare taste of Central Indian cuisine. But the sensation that lingered most in my imagination after my first visit to the restaurant was actually a memory of touch: the tactile pleasure of holding the pebbled surface of a warm sabudana fritter encrusted with tapioca pearls, then cracking the fryer-crisped baubles open to reveal steamy white centers of mashed potatoes laced with ginger, cilantro, and chilies. With a creamy pink chutney enriched with peanuts on the side, it was one of the most comforting starters I’ve nibbled this year.

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The Inquirer aims to represent the geographic, cultural, and culinary diversity of the region in its coverage. Inquirer staffers and contributors do not accept free or comped meals — all meals are paid for by the Inquirer. All dining recommendations are made solely by the Inquirer editorial staffers and contributors based on their reporting and expertise, without input from advertisers or outside interests.

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