It’s hard to lure downtown diners to Bucks County, and Roberto Carollo knows it.

Carollo’s wood-fired pizzeria inside Doylestown’s Main Street Marketplace, Spuntino, has a loyal, longstanding following, so much so that when the Washington Post analyzed 7.5 million nationwide Yelp reviews in 2023, it determined Spuntino to have the highest-rated Neapolitan pie in Pennsylvania.

“We’ve had a lot of love from the people that matter to us, but I still feel like the suburbs are a really tough place to get attention,” Carollo said. “We’ve been here 12 years, but even Doylestown residents are still finding out about us.”

But Spuntino’s puffy, leopard-spotted pies are worth a trek from wherever you may be. Thin, chewy, and judiciously loaded, the pizzas are best eaten then and there, at one of the several tables Spuntino claims inside the market. (Takeout — and leftovers — are perfectly satisfying, too.)

Carollo opened Spuntino in Doylestown in 2014 with his brother Salvatore. (They also had a Northern Liberties location from 2015 to 2023. Carollo is now Spuntino’s sole owner.) The brothers are fourth-generation pizza makers, dating back to their Sicilian great-grandfather’s bakery days. They had grown up working in their father’s Philly-area neighborhood pizzerias — “your big 16-inch pies, hoagies, sandwiches,” Carollo said — but they hadn’t made Neapolitan pies before, and they had no experience with wood-fired ovens.

“We kind of just were going in on a prayer,” Carollo said. They had their work cut out for them with this exacting style of pizza. At Spuntino, a 250-gram ball of 48- to 72-hour fermented dough is stretched into a millimeters-thin 11-inch round, then covered with sauce, cheese, and toppings before being pitched into a fiery 900-degree oven, where it cooks in about 90 seconds. The pizzaiolo needs to have an eagle eye. “Five or six seconds too long, and the pizza’s burned,” Carollo said.

Evidently, his prayers were heard: Inquirer critic Craig LaBan named Spuntino among the suburbs’ best pizzas in 2017. Carollo said his chops have only gotten sharper since. “[The pizza] is so much better, and I think that’s natural, that’s normal. Anybody who has any profession — a major athlete — when they start at 18, they’re not as good, hopefully, as they are when they’re 25.”

It’s hard to choose among the 23-pie menu, but Carollo always recommends setting a baseline with a Regina, with milled San Marzano tomatoes, Lioni buffalo mozzarella, fresh basil, and salty pecorino Romano. My family scarfed one of those down, but our favorites were the Ronzio — with the same tomatoes and mozzarella, plus thin-sliced soppressata, shaved garlic, Sicilian oregano, mild Calabrian chilies, and a drizzle of honey — and the Carbonara, a white pie with pancetta, caramelized onions, fresh mozz, pecorino, and an egg yolk that’s finished with black pepper and olive oil.

We’ll be back for what Carollo considers his most underrated pizza — the Tonno, a red pie with Sicilian tuna and red onion — plus another spin through his fellow vendors in the family-friendly Main Street Marketplace, including Hops/Scotch and the Department of Note stationary store and boutique. Carollo makes a very good point, and Spuntino is proof: “There are a lot of places out in the suburbs that are making such amazing pizza.”

Spuntino, 22 S. Main St., Doylestown, 215-340-7660, spuntinowoodfiredpizzeria.com