Cavatelli Amatriciana at Angelina’s Pizzeria
he line on Ambler’s new Angelina’s Pizzeria: There probably will be a line, especially at dinnertime. Though the area has no shortage of Italian restaurants, chef Benny Puleo’s casual trattoria has been packing them in since its opening in April, putting the “din” in dinner in a room that channels old-school comfort, with red-and-white checkered tablecloths, white banquettes, and family photos lining the walls. The menu extends beyond standard Philly-area pizzeria fare — witness the baked panuozzo (a pocket-style sandwich), creative twists (octopus carpaccio), and a line of pastas that will be familiar to Puleo’s followers from previous stop La Stalla in Newtown.
Worth noting in particular: cavatelli Amatriciana, a rich, slightly sweet adaptation of the classic Roman Amatriciana. It subs pillowy cavatelli for the traditional bucatini, a tasty vehicle for a robust pomodorini sauce, crispy pancetta, and caramelized red onions. N.B. Lunch and takeout are options, too. Angelina’s Pizzeria, 869 W. Butler Pike, Ambler, 215-399-5500, angelinasambler.com
— Michael Klein
Italian pastries at a Suraya x Joey Baldino pop-up
Last Saturday I did something I never thought I would do: I waited in line for 20 minutes for a box of limited-edition pastries and thought it was worth it.
Suraya’s pastry chef James Matty — a one-time James Beard Award semifinalist for outanding pastry chef — is kicking off a series of one-day-one chef collaborations at the Lebanese restaurant on Frankford Avenue in Fishtown. First up was chef Joey Baldino for a morning of classic and colorful Italian pastries that burst with the same level of whimsy as Bomb Bomb Bar, Baldino’s latest joint. The quartet of pastries included a sheep’s milk ricotta zeppole flecked with pistachios and chocolate chips, plus a moist lemon-semolina loaf cake smeared with a lemon curd that left me licking my fingers.
The two standouts, however, were a classic cornetto filled with thick pistachio butter and a towering pine nut brioche bun dusted with candied meringue dots and itsy-bitsy edible flower petals. Baldino told me that the bun was inspired by Mount Etna, the volcano in Sicily that appears to lean like the Tower of Pisa because it is literally sliding towards the sea. While not quite sky-high, this brioche was hefty, with the crunchy coating of meringue and petals a fun allusion to cooled bits of lava. Suraya, 1528 Frankford Ave., 215-302-1900, surayaphilly.com
— Beatrice Forman
Mango Yakult yogurt at Hey I Am Yogost
Chinese beverage chains have been sweeping across major cities in the United States, and Philadelphia has been slow to feel their presence — until recently. None are more welcome in my mind than Hey I Am Yogost. I’ve become utterly fixated on their icy drinkable yogurts. They feature flavors from matcha and strawberry to avocado, and can be customized with bites of mochi or clouds of whipped cream. You can also choose your level of sugar and how much ice you’d like integrated into your beverage. My favorite combination has been mango with tangy Yakult — my favorite childhood probiotic drink — and yogurt, no sugar, and no ice. Yes, I like my drinkable yogurt thick and rich. Hey I Am Yogost, 124 N. 10th St., 445-223-1627, yogostca.com
— Kiki Aranita
The Spinach Jawn at Batter & Crumbs
This might just be the perfect walking snack. Batter & Crumbs’ Spinach Jawn boasts a thin and crusty golden shell that envelops a layer of hearty greens. Despite its gimmicky nickname, this jawn is an erbazzone, a traditional savory pie from Emilia-Romagna. But like the rest of the cafe’s offerings, this one is completely vegan, omitting any Parmesan or pancetta. The pastry doesn’t need it. As it stands at under $7, the Spinach Jawn is a midday pick-me-up in the perfect size for snacking while commuting. The deep gold and thin crust brought me back to sunny days in South Florida, where I snacked on Jamaican patties.
Batter & Crumbs, 1401 Reed St., 267-319-8852, batterandcrumbs.com
— Emily Bloch
