Nearly three years ago, with a lease expiring and other business pressures bearing down, chef Peter McAndrews closed Modo Mio.

The well-regarded, Italian BYOB on Girard Avenue across from Northern Liberties had made him a name after he left the old Rembrandt’s in Fairmount a decade before.

McAndrews had vowed to return to the notion of earthy, homespun cooking in a chill, friendly atmosphere. But first, he set about to pare his responsibilities, closing Monsu in South Philadelphia and Popolino in Northern Liberties and selling his interests in two Heffe taquerias and several Paesano’s sandwich shops.

Chef-owner Peter McAndrews at Modo Mio's second incarnation, at Fifth and Monroe Streets in Queen Village.
MICHAEL KLEIN / Staff
Chef-owner Peter McAndrews at Modo Mio's second incarnation, at Fifth and Monroe Streets in Queen Village.

Now with La Porta humming along in Media and a single, relocated Paesano’s now open in Fishtown, he’s taken over the shuttered Plenty Cafe/Village Bar & Kitchen at Fifth and Monroe Streets in Queen Village.

Thursday at 5 p.m., McAndrews opens the revival of Modo Mio (705 S. Fifth St., 267-239-2712), across from M2O and in the middle of Queen Village’s sizable Italian scene (including Gigi, Emmy Squared, Fiore, Ambra, Gnocchi, and Cry Baby). This time out, Modo Mio has a liquor license and full-service bar, with a $7 red and white wine option and bottles from $40 to $180.

Key new feature: It’s also open at noon for lunch daily, as well as dinner, plus late night. McAndrews wants to draw off-duty restaurant staffers, as closing times will be midnight on weekdays and 1 a.m. on weekends.

You’ll notice Monsu’s octopus and snails on the menu, in addition to Modo Mio’s hit agnolotti del plin (rabbit ravioli) and lasagna.

The menu includes a $45 “turista," which gives you an antipasto, a first and second course, and dessert. Also, the bar top will house a spread of cold vegetable-based dishes and house-baked breads; that option is $16 a head.

For now, reservations may be left on voicemail: 267-239-2712.

Sideboard in Modo Mio's dining room includes house-baked bread, cheeses, and wines.
MICHAEL KLEIN / Staff
Sideboard in Modo Mio's dining room includes house-baked bread, cheeses, and wines.
The bar at Modo Mio, 705 S. Fifth St., is similar to that at Village Bar.
MICHAEL KLEIN / Staff
The bar at Modo Mio, 705 S. Fifth St., is similar to that at Village Bar.