The Loews hotel at 12th and Market Streets is undergoing a large-scale renovation that has temporarily moved the lobby to the 12th Street side and closed SoleFood, the ground-floor restaurant.

When the smoke clears next spring, an entirely new restaurant - still overseen by executive chef Tom Harkins - will emerge in its place.

For now, though, the Loews runs a restaurant and bar called Level 33, on the 33d floor, to handle breakfast through dinner.

Talk about putting the "up" in "pop-up restaurant." At this - the second-highest public restaurant in the city, behind R2L - you get dazzling views north and east.

Eighty years ago, the 33d floor was used by the board of directors of PSFS, which built the landmark tower. The floor's original finishes are maintained, including the rosewood paneling and travertine walls.

The Loews has used the space for banquets.