Clarkville (4301 Baltimore Ave., 215-387-4992), replacing a pizzeria called Best House (after a spell as Wurst House), is colorful drop-in: 11 beers, 5 wines, no bottle anything, no liquor.

Menu by Justin Bennett is just as easy, with assorted snacks and appetizers, such as stuffed peppadews, a couple of salads, a couple of sandwiches, and a couple more substantial plates, such as coq au vin, spaghetti, and spicy grilled shrimp, and five pizzas.