Just about five years ago, chef Arthur Cavaliere set out to lift the local pizza scene with In Riva, his stylish, Schuylkill-side Southern Italian in East Falls.

Now he's taking wing with another idea: He's pumping up the fried chicken game. On Aug. 24, he opened a shop a block away called Foghorn (4213 Ridge Ave., 267-335-3061). It's the storefront, across from the Engine 35/Ladder 25/Medic 16 firehouse, that briefly housed the early fly-by-night hipster bar Fork & Barrel.

Cavaliere opted for bold colors, turning the bar into a counter, decorating with Etsy-bought chicken tchotchkes, and adding two murals: a medical school-style schematic diagram of the innards of a chicken as well as a whimsical depiction of the Schuylkill.

Menu is simple: half and whole chicken, and a chicken sandwich. Cavaliere and his longtime righthand man Crisanto Ramos went through hundreds of birds before nailing the recipe for a tender, juicy, pressure-cooked bird that is thickly breaded with plenty of crunchy nubs but is not greasy (it's $9 for a five-piece half, $18 for a 10-piece whole, plus slaw or pickle, and specialty sauce). The sandwich, one of the best ways in this town to spend $8, is a 6-ounce boneless, skinless breast served with mayo and house-made pickles on a potato roll with a side of slaw or pickle, plus sauce.

The chicken is mildly seasoned. The idea, says Cavaliere, is to add flavor via sauce ("herby" ranch, black pepper honey, chipotle barbecue, and honey Dijon). Hand-cut fries ($4), cups of coleslaw, and extra pickles round out the menu, which you can see in the image gallery.

Foghorn's name, by the way, is borrowed not only from the cartoon character Foghorn Leghorn - and the counter guys will smile gamely at your impression of the boisterous rooster - but from the foghorns that Schuylkill boaters use to signal to rowers.

Hours are 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and noon to 8 p.m. Sunday.