La Mula Terca: Latin street food in Point Breeze

"Everything seems boring on the menu of the local Mexican restaurants," Israel Nocelo was saying the other day.

"You go to a Mexican restaurant and every single one has the same mole, tamales, chips and salsa," he said. "We don't eat like that."

Nocelo, a Puebla native who's been head mixologist for Zavino and Tredici for the last year (with some kitchen experience in Mexico), wanted to do something about that.

He picked up a business partner (restaurateur Arturo Lorenzo) and leased a former corner pizzeria on Snyder Avenue near 22nd Street in Point Breeze. It's across the street from Cafe y Chocolate, Lorenzo's all-day restaurant.

Last week saw the debut of La Mula Terca (2053 S. Beechwood St., 267-761-5194), a cheery 30-seater with faux brick walls. You'll see a few stubborn mules - the translation of the name - here and there.

Nocelo - following the notion that today's ingredient-conscious mixologists can also cook - is turning out simple but elegant Latin street food, with a few platters.

The ensalada de campo ($9) is little more than tomato, avocado, red onion and a combo of dry oregano, balsamic, and olive oil. Shrimp ceviche ($12) features onion, tomato, cilantro, and citrus juice. Jicama ($5) is drizzled with chamoy and chile lime salt. There's a quesadilla ($11) garnished with zucchini blossom, Oaxaca cheese, epazote, and jalapeno. Four entrees: braised short ribs ($18), vegetables ($18), braised lamb shoulder ($20), and a proper churrasco (grilled skirt steak, $18).

Desserts include Mexican lime water ice and mango queso fresco y miel.

Hours are 5 to 11 p.m.  Monday to Saturday. Bring agave-based spirits for custom mixers.