Just as Marc Vetri entered the New Jersey burbs with Osteria, and Jose Garces is putting together a Distrito in the same shopping center, the guys from Estia, Center City's poshest Greek restaurant, have made a play for Garden State.

In its second week is Estia Taverna - a semicasual, light and easy offshoot of the flagship - at 140 West Route 70 in Marlton. Decor features include hand-chiseled Jerusalem limestone floors, hand-woven rugs, vaulted ceilings, antiqued stucco walls.

Entree prices are $16 to $34. Unlike Center City, where you order fish by the pound, in Marlton you pay a flat rate. It's easier to see what you're getting into.

Owners/brothers Pete and Nick Pashalis, along with Pete's brother-in-law, John Lois, had Pietro's Coal-Oven Pizzeria but realized that there is plenty of pizza competition.

Another Taverna location is up for summer at 200 S. Radnor-Chester Rd. in Radnor Township.