Pennsport's Fourth & Cross - which opened in June as a bruncherie and closed at the end of October for a retooling - is back this week.

Chef/owner Andrew Michaels has ramped it up, remaking it into a dinner BYOB destination: candlelit atmosphere, ambitious, contemporary American menu with locally sourced, sustainable ingredients, an optional cheese course, and OpenTable reservations.

"Pretty," Michaels says. "It's the way I always wanted it to be." (He said weekend brunch would return in early spring.)

He's handling all the cooking himself. His current menu shows three savory courses - including four firsts, four seconds, and five entrees. Dessert/cheese menu is here.

It's open nightly except for Tuesday.