Pennsport's Fourth & Cross - which opened in June as a bruncherie and closed at the end of October for a retooling - is back this week.

Chef/owner Andrew Michaels has ramped it up, remaking it into a dinner BYOB destination: candlelit atmosphere, ambitious, contemporary American menu with locally sourced, sustainable ingredients, an optional cheese course, and OpenTable reservations.

He's handling all the cooking himself. His current menu shows three savory courses - including four firsts, four seconds, and five entrees. Dessert/cheese menu is here.

It's open nightly except for Tuesday.