Philly shut out at James Beard Awards
Monday night, gathering for the first time in Chicago, the foundation honored Spike Gjerde of Woodberry Kitchen in Baltimore with the award for best chef, Mid-Atlantic. Philadelphians Joe Cicala (Le Virtù, Brigantessa), Rich Landau (Vedge, V Street) and Greg Vernick (Vernick Food & Drink) were honored with nominations that category, as was Cindy Wolf of Charleston in Baltimore.
Fourth time was not the charm at the James Beard Foundation awards.
Philadelphians again were denied medals at the annual ceremony, generally regarded as the Oscars of the culinary world.
Monday night, gathering for the first time in Chicago, the foundation honored Spike Gjerde of Woodberry Kitchen in Baltimore with the award for best chef, Mid-Atlantic. Philadelphians Joe Cicala (Le Virtù, Brigantessa), Rich Landau (Vedge, V Street) and Greg Vernick (Vernick Food & Drink) were honored with nominations that category, as was Cindy Wolf of Charleston in Baltimore.
The last Philadelphia chef to bring home a Beard for best chef, Mid-Atlantic was Michael Solomonov (Zahav, and later Abe Fisher, Dizengoff and Federal Donuts) in 2011.
Stephen Starr, who owns restaurants in Philadelphia, New York, Atlantic City, Washington, D.C., Miami and Fort Lauderdale, was up for restaurateur of the year. Donnie Madia of Chicago's One Off Hospitality Group (Blackbird, Avec, The Publican, et al) won.
Marc Vetri, who with business partner Jeff Benjamin has built an empire since 1998 (Vetri, 2 Osterias, Amis, Alla Spina, Lo Spiedo, Pizzeria Vetri ), was up for chef of the year. Winner was Michael Anthony of Gramercy Tavern in New York.
Alex Bois, 28, the wunderkind behind the baked goods at High Street on Market and Fork, was a nominee for rising star chef of the year (under 30 years old) - appropriate for a baker. Winner was Jessica Largey of Manresa in Los Gatos, Calif.
Sam Calagione of Dogfish Head in Delaware was nominated in the category of outstanding wine, beer, or spirits professional.
Sort of locally connected: Alon Shaya, an Israeli-born Harriton High graduate who grew up in Narberth, won best chef for the South. He is chef at Domenica in New Orleans, co-owned with John Besh.
And in a rare win for everyday cookery, a pitmaster won a regional Beard award - Aaron Franklin of Franklin Barbecue in Austin, Texas, won for the Southwest.
Blue Hill at Stone Barns, the rustic institution in Pocantico Hills, N.Y., was named restaurant of the year. Bâtard, the spare Euro-American in TriBeCa, was new restaurant of the year.
In a plodding, 3-hour, 45-minute webcast, the most telling remark was: "I'd like to thank sobriety for letting me focus on what is important," said Mark Ladner of Del Posto, accepting the award for best chef in New York.