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Pinefish's hook: Seafood and style in Center City

The well-seasoned Peter Dissin is behind this Wash West charmer.

Peter Dissin, whose long history in the restaurant business started decades ago with his father, Henry (including Henry's at 20th and Market Streets and also near the old Garden State Park, Absolutely Gloria's in Cherry Hill, and the Calico Kitchens), has just opened Pinefish (12th and Pine Streets, 267-519-2850).

The dimly lit, moodily sexy seafooder, with bar, replaces the long-running Pine Street Pizza, which was neither dimly lit nor moodily sexy. Both the front room (now a lounge) and turquoise main room are a hodgepodge of collectibles, conjuring memories of maybe the Knave of Hearts.

Pinefish's menu includes conventional entrees (whole grilled fish, lobster, steak, a hamburger, and a brisket sandwich; top price $28) while offering small plates that can be built into meals (shrimp, tuna, mussels, oysters).

Among the cold dishes are bong-smoked oysters - which, I suppose, really makes this a seafood joint. Yes, they're seasoned with smoke drawn out of a blend of lapsang souchong tea, citrus, and peppercorns. Bar includes five $5 beers on tap, Euro wines, and cocktails.

Dissin, who more recently operated Isabella in Conshohocken and the late 500 Degrees in Center City, is open for dinner daily. Lunch and brunch are on the way.

No reservations.