Billy G's, an oldtime corner diner straight out of central casting, closed last year.
New this week in its place at 12th and Callowhill Streets in the Loft District is Quisqueya, a Dominican and Peruvian diner and BYOB (345 N. 12th St., 215-366-1063).
Owner Rafael Francisco and his son, Lenin, also own 12th Street Food Market up the block.
They have spiffed up Billy G's, adding a new counter and a coat of paint, though it still suggests "diner." (Billy G's itself got a bit of a makeover in early 2010 when it was used to shoot scenes for the Bradley Cooper movie Limitless.)
How do the Dominican and Peruvian concepts align? Easy. The Franciscos are Dominican but they hired Peruvian chefs to cook something Latin but different.
You get the Dominican in the breakfasts, which include egg plates and sandwiches. The deep-fried pork sandwich ($8) alone is worth the trip. The kitchen fries strips of pork and layers them on a kaiser roll with a sweet-and-pungeant dressing, slices of fried sweet potato and rings of pickled onion.
Lunchtime includes $8 Peruvian plates combining rice, a protein, and salads.
Dinnertime brings all sorts of Peruvian plates from chef Richard Perez, priced at or below $18, including lomo saltado (the Chifa-style stir-fry of beef and potatoes), tallarin (variations of this Peruvian linguine classic), and ceviche. It's BYOB.
Hours are 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday to Friday, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. weekends.
Menu is here.