Restaurant notes: Up in the Main Line's grill
New grill in Paoli, and one on the way in Wayne.
After a mild drought, the Main Line is picking up with restaurant openings.
Xilantro is running in downtown Wayne, presenting a tequila-infused counterbalance to the newish Matador directly across North Wayne Avenue. (The bi-level Matador, the warmer and more romantic of the two, has more Spanish influences in its food and overall spirit.)
Gemelli in Narberth is no longer. But remember that this summer, Clark Gilbert plans to reopen his Euro BYO in the former Manayunk space of MangoMoon (4161 Main St.), where he'll pick up a liquor license. (Here's a sample menu.) He's under heavy construction. Effective the weekend of June 4, the Gemelli space becomes Aperto (232 Woodbine Ave., Narberth, 610-660-0160), a BYOB under John Wolferth, who made his biggest mark of late at Sola in Bryn Mawr. (Get it straight: Wolferth in Narberth.) He has done blessedly little to the inviting space (which has a sweet outdoor dining area), and his moderate-priced menu (teens and $20s) will include lamb ragout with rosemary mint and house-made gnocchi and braised short ribs with white cheddar polenta, plus a respectable vegetarian tasting plate.
New this week is Redhound Grille at 128 Paoli Pike in Paoli, replacing the Big Easy Saloon. Chef-owners Shane Magee and Owen Marshall bill it as a neighborhood place, though they're stepping things up with the local sourcing/we-try-for-organics thing. They dry-age steaks in-house, and grind their own burgers. Entrees top out at $22. It's open Tuesday to Sunday for lunch, daily for dinner, and Sunday brunch. The tasteful "hound" theme is a nod to Magee's two Rhodesian Ridgebacks.
I'm expecting a July opening of Hogfish Bar & Grill, in the former Osaka space next to Flavor, at 372 W. Lancaster Ave. in Wayne.