Tria has come a long way from the early days in 2004 at 18th and Sansom Streets, when it cleverly focused on wine, beer and cheese - lovely pairings that required little intervention from a chef.
Things were much the same at its second location, at 12th and Spruce. For the third location - Tria Taproom (2005 Walnut St.) - Jon Myerow, David Kwass and Michael McCaulley added an oven for flatbreads and snacks.
Later this week, Tria Fitler Square (2227 Pine St., 215-309-2245) will roll out in the former Dmitri's at 23d and Pine Streets.
Significantly, it will have a full, open kitchen for new executive chef Karen Nicolas, who was one of Food & Wine magazine's Best New Chefs 2012. In addition to the wine and beer pairings and small plates, she will offer a more dinner-focused menu of seafood and pasta dishes. (Menu is here.)
This spot's sleek but warm design - as specced out by Jenkintown's Otto Architects and South Philly's Assimilation Design Lab - is reminiscent of Tria Taproom's. Josh Otto and David Whipple, who won a James Beard Foundation nomination for Tria Taproom, have opted for wood paneling and exposed, white-washed brick walls, rather than metal and marble.
Dmitri regulars will admire the new windows that let you actually see the square from the bar.
The back bar is minimal for a reason, Myerow said. "You want to see the square," he said.