Drink: Siembra Metl Mezcal Cupreata
Much like the tequilas from Siembra Azul, the new line of Siembra Metl mezcals just introduced by David Suro-Piñera's locally based spirits company speak to his love of unique terroir and ancient Mexican artisan techniques. The rapidly growing category of
Much like the tequilas from Siembra Azul, the new line of Siembra Metl mezcals just introduced by David Suro-Piñera's locally based spirits company speak to his love of unique terroir and ancient Mexican artisan techniques. The rapidly growing category of mezcal - a wider family of agave spirits from which tequila sprang - tends to be more rustic and idiosyncratic than the now highly commericalized tequila field. But these bottles from master mescalero Jose Emilio Vieyra Rangel in Michoacán show a little more finesse than some of the campfire-pungent Oaxacan mezcals that first charmed the American market. There most definitely is still smoke in a bottle like the Cupreata, as its agave piñas are roasted for three days in a pit over lava rocks beneath palm fronds. But the smoke is elegant and light, letting the almost eucalyptus and citrus flavor of the nearby forests shine through, accented by the pine and oyamel fir wood that's also used for the condensation pipes attached the copper still. This is an exceptionally smooth but character-filled spirit that defies all the cliches of mezcal's rotgut past. With seveal other mezcals from Siembra now appearing (including a rare "pechuga" under the Don Mateo de la Sierra label, distilled with venison and turkey meat in the brew), the world of mezcals has never been so exciting.
- Craig LaBan
Siembra Metl Mezcal Cupreata, $14 a glass at Tequila's, 1602 Locust St., 215-546-0181. Can be special-ordered through State Stores for $57.99 (code 556927). Also available at several restaurants: Jose Pistola's, Vernick, Brick & Mortar, El Rey, Lucha Cartel, and La Calaca Feliz.