Cream of mushroom soup gets a High Street revamp

Few ingredient-preparation combos are quite as perfect as mushrooms and soup.

There's just something about a broth - especially a creamy one - that manages to extract the earth right out of those 'shrooms and make them irresistible.

For many, like chef Jon Nodler of High Street on Market (as well as a.kitchen), there's also a strong nostalgia wrapped up in cream of mushroom soup, the canned variety of which was a staple on his childhood table in Minnesota.

The version he's created for the winter lunch menu at High Street has all of that warmth and comfort, but none of the industrial product's gloppy thickness.

Nodler preroasts all the mushroom trim from the restaurant's more elaborate evening homage to Kennett Square, simmers it with mushroom stock and cream, and then purees it with a touch of sherry until it's silky and light but still resonant, nutty, and deep.

To bring that forest feeling to another level with High Street's trademark layering of flavors, he dusts the bowl with an aromatic streusel "soil" made from crushed dried black trumpet and porcini mushrooms, black sesame seeds, and brown butter solids.

Add a crispy parsnip chip for texture and savory snap, and it's a satisfying bowl that both reaffirms the classic combo and redefines it in a modern way.

-- Craig LaBan

Roasted mushroom soup, $8, High Street on Market, 308 Market St., 215-625-0988; highstreetonmarket.com