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If you're hoarding the last ripe crop of late-season tomatoes at the farmer's market (as I am), here's a crisp, affordable wine to do them justice at the final feast: Blockheadia Ringnosii.

This steely sauvignon blanc with the whimsical blockhead label, on sale for $10.99 in Pennsylvania, was made by Michael Ouellette, the former sommelier at Napa's famed Mustards Grill. Aged in stainless steel tanks for four months to preserve the sauvignon's naturally snappy character, it has a tart mineral pucker that can cut through through the sweet fleshiness of a raw tomato. A balanced, peary finish, though, keeps it from coming on too strong.

The 2006 "all tank" sauvignon blanc from Blockheadia Ringnosii is available for $10.99 at selected Pennsylvania state wine stores.

- Craig LaBan