In the sultry climate of Provence, where growing white grapes with any vibrance is a challenge, rosés have essentially become the region's answer to dry white wines, says Gregory Moore of Moore Bros. Wines.

This 2007 Cuvée Le Chataignier rosé from Domaine de la Citadelle certainly is crisp enough to stand in for any white, but it also has a zesty berry edge and a whiff of red fruit on the nose to remind you where it comes from. It's made from the free-run juice of black cinsault grapes, which is bled off in the classic style of

vin de saignée

before extracting too much color from the skins. The result is a bracing and lively wine that, at this affordable price, makes a versatile companion for your sultry weather drinking.

The 2007 Domaine de la Citadelle Cuvée Le Chataignier Rosé costs $14 a bottle (or $13.30 by the case) at Moore Bros. Wines in Pennsauken (7200 N. Park Dr., 856-317-1177) and Wilmington (1416 N. DuPont St., 877-316-6673.)

- Craig LaBan