With a goofy label and name like this - Wrongo Dongo - how could it be, well, right? Savvy wine hunters, though, will note the name of Spain's super-importer Jorge Ordoñez on the back label (remember his past bargain hits, Borsao and Tres Picos?), and give this unlikely bottle a chance.

I'm glad I did, because this well-balanced find from the Jumilla region of southern Spain, made of 100 percent monastrell (a.k.a. mourvedre) by Bodegas Hijos de Juan Gil, may just be one of the most drinkable wine values out there. I get a burst of ripe black raspberries on the front wrapped in silky, cocoa-dusted tannins and earth that keep the flavors well on track, whether drinking solo or with food. It's a perfect by-the-caser for the holiday fiesta, with easy possibilities for upgrades to the bodega's more upscale monastrells, including the namesake "Juan Gil" (usually in teens) and El Nido Clio (mid-$50s).

- Craig LaBan
Wrongo Dongo costs $10.99 in Pennsylvania (code: 009820); now on sale for $6.49 at Canal's Bottlestop in Marlton (10 W. Route 70, 800-327- 5054), where the more refined "Juan Gil" costs $11.99.