Drink: Gotham Project wines on draft

Bringing the fresh taste and eco-friendliness of wines on draft to Pennsylvania has been a doggedly thirsty quest for Terry Berch McNally from London Grill and William Reed of Johnny Brenda's. They recruited Reed's local state rep, Michael O'Brien, to help change state laws last summer to allow it. But nothing happens quickly in Pennsylvania when it comes to wine. Though in-state wines have been allowed on draft for some time, it took until Feb. 1 for the PLCB to finally permit out-of-state wine keg sales. And in short order, the numerous international varieties shipped over in giant containers then kegged at New York's Gotham Project are proving to be game-changers. I loved the El Rede malbec, lush with blackberry and licorice, and perfect for London's duck rolls or Boursin burger. The 2012 Bieler rosé, a blend of syrah, grenache, cinsault, and cab made at the Coteaux d'Aix winery of Gotham co-owner Charles Bieler, has the bright red fruit and quenching dry finish of summer in Provence, now streaming to Philly on tap.

- Craig LaBan
Gotham Project wines on draft, from $6 for a 3 oz. glass to $42 a liter, London Grill (2301 Fairmount Ave.); at Johnny Brenda's (1201 Frankford Ave.) $9 a small 6 oz. carafe, $26 for a half-liter carafe.