At the end of dreary winter, a sip of good Sauvignon Blanc is like a reveille bugle call for your taste buds to wake up to the lightness of spring.

Two stellar bottles at Moore Brothers from Sauvignon's French sweet spot in the Loire prove that bright personality doesn't necessarily mean one-dimensional.

Le Claux Delorme is sustainably farmed by Domaine Minchin in the Valençay, the only French region with protected appellations for both a wine and cheese. And that fantastically ash-covered pyramid of fresh goat happens to be a perfect match for this wine, which is crunchy with zesty acidity, citrus blossom aromas, and a flinty finish reflective of its stony soils.

The Tasciaca from Domaine Ricard in Touraine is from just the second vintage of a new appellation, Touraine Chenonceaux, and is a considerably richer and more intense Sauvignon, with almost juicy red apple and Meyer lemon notes with a richer body that rides like creamy citrus curd to the finish.

- Craig LaBan

Valençay Le Claux Delorme Domaine Minchin 2013, $19; Touraine Chenonceaux Tasciaca Domaine Ricard 2013, $25, at all Moore Bros. locations.