Good Taste: Perfecting the pizza

In a world that rewards multitasking, Frank Nattle is single-minded. And his quest - for the perfect Neapolitan pizza - may well be the best reason to visit Phoenixville I've found in a while.

Yes, there are five pies and a salad on his microscopic menu. And four of them are just fine. But you really need to know about just one: the Regina, a Margherita made with buffalo mozzarella from Caserta (Nattle's ancestral town), a sunburst of San Marzano sauce, and aromatic fresh basil. Not everyone gets the genuine Neapolitan style.

The crust puffs quickly and blisters from the 1,000-degree fireburst of a fresh log in the oven. But the center remains soft and soupy ("almost rare, like a marshmallow," says Nattle.) So try it with a knife and fork, Italian-style. Savor the roasty chew of the crust, the creamy cheese and bright fresh sauce in one bite. And you may become single-minded, too.

Vecchia Pizzeria, 249 Bridge St., 610-933-1355; www.vecchiapizzeria.com

- Craig LaBan