You think you know gouda?

You probably don't know what gouda can be unless you've tasted Wilde Weide, a "farmhouse" cheese handmade by Jan and Roos van Schie on their little island in South Holland in the Netherlands. Unlike even the best mass-produced goudas, which can become waxy and butterscotchy with age, there is a remarkably subtle complexity to Wilde Weide, but also a fresh brightness evident from the organic raw milk of Montbeliarde and red Friesian cows.

This two-year-old firm cheese melts in slo-mo on the tongue, its texture crumbling like a fine sand of flavor crystals, turning to creaminess that evokes nuts and oaked whiskey, then an herbal brightness that pays homage to the name: wilde weide is Dutch for "wild meadow."

Farmhouse goudas aren't well-known because they're rare. Di Bruno's, though, is one of America's few cheesemongers with a steady supply.

Wilde Weide Gouda, $29.99 a pound, Di Bruno Bros. (all locations.)

- Craig LaBan