Percy Street Barbecue is known for ribs, brisket, and the like. Three years in at Ninth and South Streets, chef Erin O'Shea has added seafood and Southern dishes to her menu, channeling her Southern cooking roots.

She gets grits from Byrd Mill in Ashland, Va. They cook all day in chicken stock with a touch of butter and salt before they're chilled overnight; the next day, cooks hit 'em with more stock, butter, and salt, and serve them with surry sausage, fried oysters, and pickled red onion ($8).

Olive-oil-poached shrimp ($8) gets a zing from shaved lemon and a beautiful, sour balance from her house-pickled cauliflower, carrot, Vidalia onion, jalapenos, garlic, and cilantro. She adds that most Southern of touches, saltine crackers, on the side.

Southern dishes at Percy Street Barbecue, 900 South St., 215-625-8510.

- Michael Klein